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Routes in Toxic Waste Wall

Chemical Warfare S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hazardous Waste T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stimpy on Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toxic Socks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Stone Wipe S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Wasted Effort TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Briggs, Becchio '91
Page Views: 1,446 total, 10/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a fun little route with the crux mostly down low and balancy.

Protection

Bolted route to bolt anchor.

Photos

Stephen Troxel
Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
  5.9 PG13
Stephen Troxel   Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
  5.9 PG13
Great 2 for 1; dangerous AND chossy. In general, I would skip this sub-area if there's anything else to do. Sep 24, 2017
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.10a
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.10a
I think this is the route that starts to the left of the grey-ish face of friable flakes. In the photo on this site, it is left of Chemical Warfare, correct me if I'm wrong. The route goes up and bit and curves/angles right for a couple bolts, avoiding the bad grey face, then turns back upward to a chain anchor. I felt the bolts were not too far apart, but a blown clip would spell disaster probably.

I thought this route was a little more technical than chemical warfare, but the latter was a little more strenuous. Most of the holds seemed pretty solid, although I climbed extremely conscientiously, especially tapping the small footholds. I didn't know at all what I was climbing or what to expect, but I thought it might be 5.9 and that Chemical Warfare felt a little easier, mostly because it was less technical and strength helped. However, retrospectively I started to think that 10a would be a fair grade, and lo and behold, thats what its given in the guide and on MP.

I was initially turned off from toxic waste wall by comments here. Definitely worth a visit for locals. I decided to check it out after I saw people climbing it recently, and I'll definitely return sometime. Jul 1, 2011
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I second that PG rating. My buddy did take the big plunge and broke his ankle pretty bad. I can't remember exactly what the gear is like, but I think you can take a set of nuts for the "runout" section. Apr 22, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.9+ PG13
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.9+ PG13
This route deserves a PG notation. There is the potential for a LONG fall before the 4th bolt. Puzzling bolt placements.

ADDITION:
I just noticed that this route got an "R" rating in the original Tucker/Steele guide; although, it had one fewer bolts than it now has. Feb 21, 2008