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Routes in Toxic Waste Wall

Chemical Warfare S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hazardous Waste T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stimpy on Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toxic Socks S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Two Stone Wipe S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Wasted Effort TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Briggs, Becchio '91
Page Views: 1,543 total · 10/month
Shared By: Kristin McNamara on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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24 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun little route with the crux mostly down low and balancy.

Protection

Bolted route to bolt anchor.

Photos

Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.9+ PG13
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.9+ PG13
This route deserves a PG notation. There is the potential for a LONG fall before the 4th bolt. Puzzling bolt placements.

ADDITION:
I just noticed that this route got an "R" rating in the original Tucker/Steele guide; although, it had one fewer bolts than it now has. Feb 21, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I second that PG rating. My buddy did take the big plunge and broke his ankle pretty bad. I can't remember exactly what the gear is like, but I think you can take a set of nuts for the "runout" section. Apr 22, 2008
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.10a
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.10a
I think this is the route that starts to the left of the grey-ish face of friable flakes. In the photo on this site, it is left of Chemical Warfare, correct me if I'm wrong. The route goes up and bit and curves/angles right for a couple bolts, avoiding the bad grey face, then turns back upward to a chain anchor. I felt the bolts were not too far apart, but a blown clip would spell disaster probably.

I thought this route was a little more technical than chemical warfare, but the latter was a little more strenuous. Most of the holds seemed pretty solid, although I climbed extremely conscientiously, especially tapping the small footholds. I didn't know at all what I was climbing or what to expect, but I thought it might be 5.9 and that Chemical Warfare felt a little easier, mostly because it was less technical and strength helped. However, retrospectively I started to think that 10a would be a fair grade, and lo and behold, thats what its given in the guide and on MP.

I was initially turned off from toxic waste wall by comments here. Definitely worth a visit for locals. I decided to check it out after I saw people climbing it recently, and I'll definitely return sometime. Jul 1, 2011

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