Type: Trad, 500 ft
FA: Dave Baker, Mike McEwan
Page Views: 21,510 total · 126/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Read this Access Note! Details

Description

This unique route offers a chance to take non-climbers on an adventure. Most climbers would be comfortable soloing this but a belay is a good idea for newbies.

The crux is finding the correct entry into the dome. This route is immediately right of Abra / Knead Me, between the Rockfellow Dome and Chay Desa Tsay. It is NOT in the much bigger chimney next to End Pinnacle.

There are only two places where a rope need be used. The initial pitch is about 5.3 and follows a ramp / crack into an massive chimney leading into the bowels of the rock. At this point, the chimney becomes an amazing passageway - about 2' wide with a flat bottom and perfectly parallel sides reaching up for over 200'.

Eventually you reach a small chamber in the center of the rock. Stop and enjoy this unique spot! From the chamber, the crack no longer has a flat bottom. You need to chimney up about 10 - 15', then across 20 - 30', and then back down to get to then end of the climbing. There are bolts at either end of this part that would allow you to give beginners a safe belay.

The crack opens up and becomes more broken until you eventually exit the dome. From the south side of the crack you can walk around past End Pillar to the start or climb back through the rock.

You could solo this in about 30 leisurely minutes but bringing non-climbers through is a different story.

According to the rangers, even this route is closed during bird season. What a crock!

Protection

I didn't use any pro except the bolts in the chimney.

Photos