PRINT: Rock Climb Slabotomy, Red Rocks

Slabotomy

5.9, Trad, Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 0 from 0 votes
FA: Danny Rider and Luis Saca, 1996/97
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (18) Windy Peak > S Face

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

Slabotomy is a nice short route that can be used either as an approach to Ain't No Saint or as a way to finish out the day.

The first pitch can be found just left of the base of Ain't No Saint. It follows a slightly rightward slanting crack up to a pair of bolts. (5.9)

The second pitch climbs up past numerous bolts. Some of these are quite old while others are a bit younger. This pitch ends on a ledge at a second pair of bolts beneath the slab that one may use to access the second pitch of Ain't No Saint. (5.9)

Rappel the route with double ropes or continue up Ain't No Saint.

Protection

Expect to use small cams and nuts in on the first pitch. And expect to suppliment bolts with the same on the second.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

calicodan

This description is in error. This route is one pitch and it is strictly a slab climb to the left of Aint No Saint. It is for sure 5.9 and protected by a mere three bolts - all hand drilled on lead from stances. Intended old school. Why isn't Aint No Saint listed here? Nov 17, 2009