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Routes in (p) Spiderman Buttress

Best Left to Obscurity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Captain Fingers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Explosive Energy Child T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
First Ascent Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
In Harm's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Necromancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Out of Harm's Way T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squashed Spider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff Little Fingers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Mike Smelsar 1978
Page Views: 1,998 total, 14/month
Shared By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

Previously a popular solo route is now a nice bolted route. Despite tricky moves right off the ground this route would make a great first lead. The low angled slab requires nubbin pinching and balance but gives several nice rests.

Begin at the bottom of a large fan of rock below spiderman. Go straight up the face on bolts to the spiderman first pitch anchor.

Rap route (be careful!! a 60m rope barely makes it)

Protection

12 quickdraws + slings for the anchor

chains at anchor

Photos

Byron Marohn
Portland, OR
  5.7
Byron Marohn   Portland, OR
  5.7
Climbed this today and the anchor was solid with two bolts, each with giant quicklinks to rappel from. Must have gotten fixed since last year. Apr 1, 2017
D Dale  
  • One of the bolts at the anchor has broken off and is in need of replacement* There is only a single ring to rappel off of at the top of this route. I added a biner to one of the bolts on Spiderman (there are two bolts on Spiderman side by side) and then used it and the one remaining ring on Squashed Spider to rappel down. It was a bit awkward and this wasn't a long term solution.
Mar 21, 2016
There's a very good reason for the name of the route: the amount of rockfall that comes down from Spiderman is quite frequent. Please be sure to wear a helmet and keep an eye on people on the route above you. Had a nice softball sized rock slam right next to my ankle without hearing it coming from above. Had a couple little guys bounce off both my partner's and my helmets, and later on saw a french-bread sized rock coming down on that area after we left. Oct 13, 2014
JohnK
Bend, Oregon
 
JohnK   Bend, Oregon
 
Squashed Spider is a good first-time lead because the 5.7 crux is at the very start so it's easy for the belayer to spot the leader. After that it's mostly a 5.2-5.4 hike on nubbins where most of the exercise is clipping the frequent bolts. Better quality routes are nearby including In Harms Way, Out of Harms Way and, of course, Spiderman. Apr 20, 2006