PRINT: Rock Climb Morgantown, Smith Rock

Morgantown

5.10b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 188 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (j) Rope de Dope Block

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

A short but very fun face climb 2 to the right of the 5.8 crack. It used to be a TR, but now has bolts. This is the center of 3 routes next to each other.

The crux is the lower half and involves some excellent sidepulls and gas pockets with smeary feet and 1 heel hook. Very athletic for the grade. Much better than Float Like A Butterfly. Would be a 4 star route if it was twice as long.

Protection

6 bolts with an 2 bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Right side routes of rope de dope
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Left is Rope De Dope Crack
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Middle is Sting Like a Bee
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Right is Morgantown
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Far Right (pink) is Mini Bender

Right side routes of rope de dope Left is Rope De Dope Crack Middle is Sting Like a Bee Right is Morgantown Far Right (pink) is Mini Bender

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Tvedt

Back in October of 1999, Alan Watts answered a question posted on the now defunct crag.com about Rope De Dope routes. Based on this posting by him, the routes and names on the block got remamed when a number of them got bolted around then. This route sounds like what is now called "Morgantown" and was given a tentative 10b by Alan. It's the center route(of 3) right of Rope De Dope Crack. I agree it's a great route and I'd possibly consider it 4 star too if it was longer. 10c sounds reasonable to me also. The "new" bolted "Sting Like a Bee" route is just right of the crack(and just left of this route), and was also given a tentative 10b then.
Alan noted that the line drawn for Sting Like a Bee in his 92 guide was drawn incorrectly and that the current bolted line for it doesn't follow the line in the guide. Apr 25, 2006

Steve Jay
salt lake city, UT

This is a super fun route with some really cool moves. At the bottom there is a system of sidepulls and gastons that look like africa and pulling the roof is sweet. It would be cool if the route was longer but it is still a classic. Aug 31, 2006

richard magill

great movement, super continuous May 21, 2013

scotticusmaximus
Fort Collins, CO

Great movement and fun climb! Just be careful clipping the second bolt as it happens right around a big move and there's decking potential - probably why there's that bolt for the belayer. Sep 12, 2013

S.Lee

5.10

Great route, would be classic if it was longer. May 10, 2015

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes, CA

5.10a

Watch out for the creaking undercut/sidepull hold above the 3rd bolt. It will blow soon.

10a is a good grade for this - there is no way that it is 10c. Sep 25, 2016

Zach Burgess
Seattle, WA

There are glue in bolts (no rap rings) you can safely and easily approach on the top to build an anchor to lower down to the route's rap ring anchor and built another anchor for top roping. Aug 9, 2024

Kyle .
Bellingham

The crux is not stepping in guano Nov 15, 2024

Paul Willison
Bend, OR

5.10a/b

Best route on Rope-de-Dope in my opinion. Super fun toe-hooks and heel-hooks during the first-half compression section. Jul 25, 2025