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> Givler's Dome
Givler's Crack
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3.1 from 147
votes
Routes in Givler's Dome
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Bo Derek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Givler's Crack T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Just For The Bolt Of It S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mastodon Roof T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Never-Never Crack T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Steve Marts 1970s |
| Page Views: | 12,982 total · 56/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Feb 2, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Givler's Crack is the prominent 250 foot hand crack on the front of Givler's Dome, surrounded by an obvious white wear streak. The Kramar guidebook calls it "one of the most popular routes" in the area.
It's an okay route, and a decent lead for a 5.7 leader, but it's a long way up there and the good climbing on this one is fairly short. I personally don't think it's worth the approach. There are a handful of other routes in the area, but if you're coming up to lead Givler's, you probably won't be leading them.
P1. Begin in an alcove near a tree. Some tricky moves off the ground lead to an obvious crack heading up and left. Belay on top of the horizontal flake. ~40 feet, 5.7+.
P2. Head straight up the hand crack above you. The initial climbing is fun and interesting 5.7 with good gear, but after 50 feet or so, the angle of the dome begins to fall off and the climbing gets easier and easier and less and less interesting.
To descend, walk off the back of the dome to the left.
It's an okay route, and a decent lead for a 5.7 leader, but it's a long way up there and the good climbing on this one is fairly short. I personally don't think it's worth the approach. There are a handful of other routes in the area, but if you're coming up to lead Givler's, you probably won't be leading them.
P1. Begin in an alcove near a tree. Some tricky moves off the ground lead to an obvious crack heading up and left. Belay on top of the horizontal flake. ~40 feet, 5.7+.
P2. Head straight up the hand crack above you. The initial climbing is fun and interesting 5.7 with good gear, but after 50 feet or so, the angle of the dome begins to fall off and the climbing gets easier and easier and less and less interesting.
To descend, walk off the back of the dome to the left.
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