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Routes in Condor Buttress

Condorification S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Condorphamine Addiction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Opus of the Condorian Kind S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 675 ft, 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Leland Windham, Ron Cotman 2000
Page Views: 16,216 total, 113/month
Shared By: ScottH on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Obstensibly 7 pitches long, Condorphamine Addiction is one of those routes that everyone has something to say about, and not all of them good. One thing that everyone will say is that the route is overbolted, and they're right-- it's often possible to clip a bolt and back clean the one below it from a single stance. This a distraction from the quality of the climbing, which is a shame. Condorphamine Addiction packs some enjoyable moderate pitches and two excellent friction crux pitches into a long climb that ends in a commanding position high in Icicle Creek canyon.

I'm giving this route 4 stars for it's aesthetic position in the canyon, for being a long and enjoyable multipitch sport climb, for interesting climbing on (most) of the easier pitches, and two crux pitches that hold their grade. It's probably worth fewer than that, but I couldn't bring myself to give it 3.

The climb could be done in 7 30M pitches and I've described the climb that way below, but no sane person would climb it that way. We combined P1&2, 3&4, and 5&6; I think it would be possible to combine any 2 pitches with a 60 M rope. It may be better to split P5&6 so each leader gets one of the hard ones. Find the start of Condorphamine Addiction near the far right side of the buttress.

P1. A short 5.8 pitch leads up to a set of anchors low on the face (yes, those anchors).

P2. From the end of P1, climb up and into a corner (trickier than it looks), and make a series of interesting 5.9 moves up to a nice belay ledge. (5.9)

P3. The dog of the climb, this is a short section of class IV and 5.0 climbing up and left on ledgy ground.

P4. Head up on a face angling to the right. 5.8/5.9.

P5. The first crux pitch. The crux involves interesting stemming and friction moves in an imposing and steep position. 5.10b

P6. From the top of the 5th pitch continue up on 5.10 climbing to a crux section on delicate edges (5.10b). Combining P5&6 gives close to 200 feet of quality 5.10 face climbing.

P7. Climb fun 5.5 terrain to the top.

To descend, rap the rotue. With 2 60M ropes, you can speed your descent and have more flexibility to avoid ascending parties.

Protection

Lots o' draws. If you are combining pitches remember to bring extra draws, skip bolts, or back clean periodically.
Nick Fuller
San Jose, CA
Nick Fuller   San Jose, CA
This can be linked in 3 pitches with a 60m rope. Much nicer if you don't want to pitch out all 7.

P1: Link P1, P2, P3
P2: Link P4, P5
P3: Link P6, P7

You'll be close by linking the first three pitches so you probably don't want to clip all of the bolts if you do it this way.

The crux is the approach hike. Jul 31, 2017
JoanneF's approach beta is accurate, but I would add that if you see that obvious trail next to a big boulder you can take that one too. Just turn left right after you pass it and go around the back / onto the back of the boulder and keep going left and away from the road.
Or, take the trail that's another 100' up the road which is the one she's referring too. Jul 6, 2017
In response to Galina, just did this route and the beta for finding the trail here is spot on. Trail is dusty, but well marked with cairns and not overgrown. The beginning of the trail was the hardest to navigate. When you start on the right trail, there are a bunch of bouldering trails crossing between the boulders around, veer immediately left when you start! Keep trending left initially until you start going uphill. Sep 3, 2016
Has anyone been there this year? Tried to find the trail two weeks ago. everything is overgrown. bushwacked following the cairns for 2 hours and got to the Bathtub dome which had brush growing and crawling over the rock. no trail at all. Workparty anyone? Jul 15, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Joanne is right, the crux for us was finding the right trail. We took a trail too close to town, and ended up bushwacking that last half of the way. I wish we had her directions back then...

Still, it would be nice to have a photo of The Sword/Underwear Rock at the start of the right trail. Sep 14, 2015
JoanneF
 
JoanneF  
 
The crux may have been finding it. The approach descriptions I found were confusing, so here are directions that are hopefully clearer:

  • From Leavenworth, turn on Icicle Creek Road and drive ~8.5 miles to the turn off for the Bridge Creek Campground. Continue for ~.3 miles and park in third pullout on the left.
  • The climber’s path on the right side of the road (north) is just before the pullout. If the trail you see is next to a big boulder right next to the road, you’re at the wrong pullout – keep going to the next one. It's a bit hard to see when you're driving. This topo of the 8-Mile area may be useful.
  • Shortly after the start of the trail you’ll see an open, flat area next to a large boulder (The Sword/Underwear Rock). Take a left at the boulder.
  • The trail is well worn and has a lot of small switch backs – you’ll occasionally see cairns.
  • It can take ~30 - 40 minutes to reach Bathtub Dome (the only crag you’ll see with bolts). The trail continues to the right, along the bottom tier of Bathtub Dome. It’s blocky with lots of horizontal ledges/features – the Leavenworth guide has a good photo of that section.
  • Condor Buttress is the largest formation up and to the right of Bathtub Dome.
  • Find the start of Condorphamine Addiction on the right side of the buttress. The large roof just to the left of the route has an obvious white splotch.
Sep 14, 2015
Kevin Peter  
 
A great route with good features, especially on the upper .10 pitches. My partner and I combined the first and second, then third and fourth pitches. The rappel down was no sweat. Low commitment factor. Apr 17, 2012
Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
  5.10b
Ethan Henderson   Silverdale, WA
  5.10b
A very chill climb in a great setting. Would recommend to anyone looking for a multipitch sport climb. Sep 18, 2011
Joshua Dreher
Bremerton, WA
Joshua Dreher   Bremerton, WA
Good route. The hike took more energy then the climb itself (steep climbers trail).
I expected a little bit more exposure and length but still fun and did it again with my fiancee.
Some route notes:
With a 60m we linked the 1st (Opus of the Condorian Kind which was harder then any other pitch on the climb) and 2nd pitch (20 draws), the 3rd and 4th (some long runners for this), the two crux pitches (20 or so draws) and then ran up the last 30ft 5.4 pitch. This is the way to go especially with the two crux pitches since it eliminates a semi hanging belay. It basically makes the route 3 pitches.
The first crux pitch (the best section of climbing on the route) felt more like 5.9+ while the second did feel like 5.10b. Very little drag when linking these pitches.
We have also done by linking the first three pitches (about 20ft of simul climbing with a 60m). This worked out well and turned the climbing into three long pitches after linking the 4th and 5th and the 5th and 6th. The descent down the back takes only a little bit longer then rapping and is not that bad, just a little dirty. It was nice to not have to bring another rope.

As far as the bolting is concerned I am going to have to go with Leland on this one. It allows for a very exciting and fun experience for climbers that actually climb 5.10...even in the gym. If you need to bail anywhere, you can which makes it safe and less stressful and if a section seems too hard you can easily grab a draw to get through. This is a newer sport route not an old school, dumb ass scary trad climb. Yes, there could be fewer bolts but there is no need to whine about it. I would personally like to thank Leland for putting in the weeks I'm sure it took to establish this route. Oct 12, 2010
elmo mecsko
Lyle, Washington
elmo mecsko   Lyle, Washington
I agree, this is an excellent route to do, or take someone up, if you are teaching or practicing multi-pitch proficiency. I took a climbing partner up this route as a refresher before we headed to Prussic Peak in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness, and it helped her confidence up high in the back-country. Nov 4, 2006
ScottH
 
ScottH  
 
I recently heard that a single rope rappel off the backside of the rock will get you to the ground. You can then hike around the right of the crag back to the base. May 31, 2006
Casey Jones
Seattle, WA
 
Casey Jones   Seattle, WA
 
Overbolted, but I didn't think the route was that bad. I have taken friends to climb it for their first multi-pitch and they enjoyed it. Instead of 7 pitches you can string pitches together to make it 4. Feb 9, 2006
ScottH
 
ScottH  
 
There is an alternate start to the first pitch of this climb which is located just to the left and shares the anchor. It is Opus of the Condorian Kind (5.10a), and a good way to increase the difficulty of the route. Feb 2, 2006