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Condorphamine Addiction
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 233
votes
Routes in Condor Buttress
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Condorification S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Condorphamine Addiction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Opus of the Condorian Kind S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Solitary Man S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Tails, You Lose! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
| Type: | Sport, 675 ft (205 m), 7 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Leland Windham, Ron Cotman 2000 |
| Page Views: | 34,436 total · 148/month |
| Shared By: | ScottH on Feb 1, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
A fun multipitch sport route in a beautiful setting. Some say the bolts could be further spaced, others think they are nicely spaced. Probably all will say it is a safe route. Condorphamine Addiction packs some enjoyable moderate pitches with interesting climbing and two excellent friction crux pitches into a long climb that ends in a commanding position high in Icicle Creek canyon.
The climb could be done in 7 30M pitches and I've described the climb that way below, but many folks prefer to combine pitches. We combined P1&2, 3&4, and 5&6; I think it would be possible to combine any 2 pitches with a 60 M rope. It may be better to split P5&6 so each leader gets one of the hard ones.
Find the start of Condorphamine Addiction near the far right side of the buttress.
P1. A short 5.8 pitch leads up to a set of anchors low on the face (yes, those anchors).
P2. From the end of P1, climb up and into a corner (trickier than it looks), and make a series of interesting 5.9 moves up to a nice belay ledge. (5.9)
P3. The dog of the climb, this is a short section of class IV and 5.0 climbing up and left on ledgy ground.
P4. Head up on a face angling to the right. 5.8/5.9.
P5. The first crux pitch. The crux involves interesting stemming and friction moves in an imposing and steep position. 5.10b
P6. From the top of the 5th pitch continue up on 5.10 climbing to a crux section on delicate edges (5.10b). Combining P5&6 gives close to 200 feet of quality 5.10 face climbing.
P7. Climb fun 5.5 terrain to the top.
To descend, you can rap the rotue and with 2 60M ropes, you can speed your descent and have more flexibility to avoid ascending parties. Otherwise there is an easy ~20m rap from a live tree to the gully behind with a slightly dirty walk off.
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