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Routes in Lower Gibraltar

Chimney Sweep T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Conundrum T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Left of Rapture S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Annie T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapture, The S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Warrior Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 60 ft
FA: Perlin
Page Views: 3,252 total · 22/month
Shared By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up and left from the belay ledge, and then end up just right of the arete. Three routes in such a small area makes it all feel a little contrived, but no worries..

Protection

The route is well bolted and has a bolted anchor on top.
Larry S
Boulder, CO
 
Larry S   Boulder, CO
 
Great climb, well worth doing. two sewn runners can be used as an anchor on the belay ledge if needed, or if you want to protect the leader falling below the belay ledge 1-2" cams can build a belay point just left of the climb. Fun moves it felt like a gym climb. Nov 23, 2015
One thing that helped my partner and I on this route was clipping the first bolt of the route with a long sling while on rappel and then clipping the rope into that sling from the belay ledge (we also used this sling as a secure point for the belayer to clip into as well.

The problem I wanted to avoid was that if you were to climb up to clip the first bolt, you will risk falling 20 feet down to the base of the crag below the ledge where the belayer is and the climb starts. After clipping the sling, climb up to the first bolt and add a quick-draw to the bolt and then proceed. May 24, 2011
BGraham
Fullerton, CA
 
BGraham   Fullerton, CA
 
i would highly recommend rapping down from the anchors to the belay base. the ash from the fires has made the walk around really loose and precarious- and with the chaparral all but gone, the drop from the belay ledge looks pretty serious. That being said, its a fun climb and challenging for the grade! Aug 23, 2009
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.8
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.8
Awesome little climb. Wonderful features, well protected, and fun movement. 8 protection bolts. Convenient to rap in off Lieback Annie anchors, lead The Rapture (8 bolts, could also clip one of the anchor bolts as a 9th protection bolt), then clip your anchor at Lieback Annie. 5.8 is fun!!! Aug 23, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8
All of the lead bolts on this route are the original hardware, 3/8" externally-threaded sleeve bolts like this

UPDATE:
All of the lead bolts have been replaced with stout 1/2" Rawls. Oct 9, 2007
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.8
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.8
This is one of my very favorite routes in all of Santa Barbara and Ventura Counties (up there with "Goulara" at Wheeler Gorge). The position and exposure are nearly unmatched. The moves up the arete are sustained and interesting.

The climbing is, as the Edwards guide says, "unbelievably" well protected. A great first lead.

The top of the route sports two 12mm Fixe glue-ins which were placed in 2003. Back these up with a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt placed 5-feet back from the edge. In order to top-rope the Rapture, you'll need to clip the top 3 bolts on the route (or risk a dangerous swing into the dihedral of Lieback Annie). Mar 2, 2006