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Routes in Lower Gibraltar

Chimney Sweep T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Conundrum T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Left of Rapture S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback Annie T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rapture, The S,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Warrior Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Tom Adam and Bob Garnett, September 1977
Page Views: 2,869 total, 20/month
Shared By: EricT on Feb 1, 2006 with updates
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One star doesn't seem like a lot, but hey, it's an OK little climb that would be four stars if the corner went on for more than 20 feet.

The right most route in the obvious dihedral. A good line to show beginners something other than face climbing.

Protection

Good pro exists and there are bolts at the top.
Climbed this yesterday and wanted to thank the individual who gave the lone bolt on the face at the top a stout buddy. Apr 30, 2017
Tom Adam
  5.7 PG13
Tom Adam  
  5.7 PG13
I really have enjoyed the comments here from people who've done the route. Bob Garnett and I put this up back in the pre-cam days (Friends were just coming onto the market), but today's cams are absolutely ideal for it. I'm glad Matthew took the initiative to put in some more robust anchors at the top, since the originals we put in were 3/8" Red Heads and should have been replaced years (decades?) ago. My very first leader fall was on this route, trying to make that mantle. Definitely a thrill!

Have fun, folks! Apr 12, 2016
Larry S
Boulder, CO
Larry S   Boulder, CO
The upper part of this climb felt more challenging than the bolted climb to the left, it's a fun one and worth doing. Nov 23, 2015
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
the higher bolted rap anchor above the finish of Lieback Annie now only has one bolted beefy hanger, with just an empty hole to its left. easy enough to supplement with gear and long sling tho. the two bolts with flimpsy hangers at feet level where The Rapture finishes are both still there. Sep 5, 2015
Floyd Hayes
  5.8
Floyd Hayes  
  5.8
Sweet lead! But stiff for 5.7. Jul 30, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
Thank Matt Fienup for the anchor makeover! Aug 12, 2010
Climbed this today, glue-ins have been replaced by what looks like 1/2" RAWL Expansion bolts with some BEEFY hangers. Looks good to go! Aug 11, 2010
SteveSly
Bay Area, CA
SteveSly   Bay Area, CA
Follow up to the loose bolts, have they been replaced? Jan 14, 2010
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.7
Joe Stern   Moab, Utah
  5.7
Quality line. The crux protects well if you bring the small cams along (maybe blue TCU-ish?) Rack for sewing the thing up would probably be about a single set from blue tcu to #4 new style camalot. Could skip about every other size easily. Fun climb, easy access, why not? Aug 23, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I agree, this is a great beginner trad route. The crux, while exciting, protects very well. Mar 17, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.7
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.7
This is a fun and aesthetic little route. As EricT says, IF ONLY this dihedral extended for a nice long pitch...


This is an excellent beginner's trad route EXCEPT for a 15-20 foot runout at the start on 5.6 terrain. This can be protected by placing a 3-3.5" piece at the bottom of the crack while on rappel. Next, clip one of the strands (above your rappel device) to this piece. Then pull the end of the rope that is clipped. When your rope falls, it will be pre-clipped through the first piece of gear. Lead away!

The top of this route sports two 12mm Fixe glue-ins that were placed in 2003. These can be backed up by extending a 1/2" Rawl-style expansion bolt which is set five feet back from the edge of the cliff. Mar 2, 2006