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Komodo Corner

5.8, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.4 from 21 votes
FA: Clark Jacobs and Jeff Best, 1974
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (p) Godzilla Face

Description

This is a classic crack climb in a somewhat obscure location. Pitch 1 (5.7) is pure hands, with the crux moving over a small overhang. Pitch 2 (5.7) is a very clean corner, with finger and flared hand jamming, widening to pure hands near the top. It is located at the right end of the Godzilla Face.

Protection

standard rack, with extra hand size pieces

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Splitter P2 of Komodo Corner.  Mostly fingers to hands  up top.  P1 is perfect hands.
[Hide Photo] Splitter P2 of Komodo Corner. Mostly fingers to hands up top. P1 is perfect hands.
Begins from blocks down low, but the money is through the striking and steep but short splitters.
[Hide Photo] Begins from blocks down low, but the money is through the striking and steep but short splitters.
Pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Pitch 1
2nd pitch
[Hide Photo] 2nd pitch
Upper and lower short pitches of Komodo Dragon
[Hide Photo] Upper and lower short pitches of Komodo Dragon
Looking down upper fingers dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Looking down upper fingers dihedral.
first pitch of Komodo Corner
[Hide Photo] first pitch of Komodo Corner

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

The Ruin-er
CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] i did hot buttered rump then scrambled over to do this climb. fun, covered in lichen, you can tell no one has touched these in years and they are sandbagged to boot. Jun 25, 2012
Chris Norwood
San Diego, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This climb definitely seems overlooked. It's super splitter, albeit a little hard to get to, and the ants biting you at the the belay beneath the climb sure didn't help :P

Super fun climb, but did feel a bit sandbagged, even for the area. Jul 16, 2012
G Frisby
Orange, CA
 
[Hide Comment] fun climb on the tougher end of 5.7. the belay ledge for the start of the second pitch is nice and shady, i.e. good for hot days. Jun 9, 2013
Nate M
San Diego, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I linked the two pitches into one, not recommended. The drag was relatively reasonable, but clipping can be awkward on p2 and the extra drag made the climb seem a lot harder than it was. P2 was lichen covered, grainy and far from 'clean'...could be much better if it got more traffic, but I sincerely doubt it ever will... Apr 21, 2014
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Alas if it could only be longer! Or just had the two pitches truly stacked on top of one another. As an out of shape trad climber trying to get his lead head back it felt great to crush this climb. with great foot jams the whole + solid slab divots on the upper pitch your really can't rate this anything above a 7, I really don't think it is sandbagged at all. Aug 30, 2015
Andrea Campanella
Idyllwild
 
[Hide Comment] We did it in three pitches. Started on "Funny Face", then a middle longer pitch to the trees and than the corners. The middle pitch was almost scrambling. There were many ants at the belay by the trees, below the corner. The corners are fun. the second one harder than the first and a little sandbag. The descent was a little "adventurous".... Aug 31, 2020
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Climbed this today and enjoyed it. Combined the two pitches into one (started above the blocks since we traversed in from the left from the Escalator) and used extended slings on the first and last first pitch pieces and the piece I placed in the traverse as well as the first piece in the 2nd corner. No significant rope drag so I recommend this approach. The second pitch corner was pretty burly for its length. My perfect rack for this combined pitch would be (2 .4s, 2 .5, 3 .75, 3 1's, 2 2s and 2 3s) This would provide two pieces for the anchor at the top as well. Walked up and around to the rebolting development anchors and rapped to the bottom of the escalator. Nov 15, 2020