Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tobin Sorenson, Gib Lewis and Jim Wilson, 1973
Page Views: 399 total · 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is a superb two pitch climb with lots of adventure. The crux is on pitch 1, with runout moves over a small, exposed overhang. Figuring out the easiest sequence is trickier than actually making the moves. The second pitch (5.10A) involves a scary mantle onto the lip of a large roof.


standard rack


Galloway, NJ
  5.10b R
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
  5.10b R
Wow! This route brings back frightening memories when I and K. Klis did this route back in the early 80's! If my memory serves me correctly, I remember leading both pitches, first, liebacking up a small, left facing dihedral to a liken spattered flake which you undercling for about 4-5 meters out to the left. You then, after the flake runs out, with the last cam under the flake to your right about two meters, pull off this crux high-step (5.10b) by smearing up onto a nub into a standing position and THEN clip the bolt! A short easy face brings you to the belay stance under the Toad's Lip (roof) above. ONE bolt protects you below on the face as you literally stand up under the roof, palming your way out backward then grasping the HUGE lip behind you. Once you cut your feet loose and you stop your legs from swinging, you heel-hook, I believe it's your right foot, over the lip and surmount it using good mantle technique.


You traverse about 6 meters back to the right, unprotected along the edge of the Toad's Lip, where you'll find the next bolt another 3 meters above on the wall (probably a 5.8 move), clipping it with great relief! Your partner does the same thing when he follows for he's just as unprotected as your were! The face above is runout 5.6 - 5.7 to the top. Good Lord! Feb 20, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
This is another stonemasters classic with pro of the day and dynamic moves. great fun. Mar 9, 2008
Visalia, Ca.
  5.10b R
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
  5.10b R
First post describes the route pretty good; strange moves to get started with the mantle above to finish off the classic. The style totally signifies the trad mantra, bolts only where you need them. If you can climb 5.10 should there be bolts on 5.7? May 5, 2008
Bob Gaines
  5.10b R
Bob Gaines  
  5.10b R
I believe the infamous "toads lip mantle" is actually the one at the start of P2 of Godzilla's Return. Nov 24, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
See, I was still confused! Thanks Bob - yes, I've moved my comment to the correct location. Mar 3, 2011
G.McCay's comment is mistaken. It goes like this...

Traverse in from the right into the small left facing corner, traverse more left on the bomber undercling for only a few feet, then try to figure out how the hell to get up and over. I shook out for around 20 minutes trying different angles until I figured out the beta. I used some mantle technique here.
After getting onto solid feet follow a thin flake and then a bumpy face to a ledge with one rusty bolt. I traversed left here to some new bolted anchors for the P1 belay.
The mantle is directly above the rusty bolt and it's definitely tricky. Do it, traverse right to another rusty bolt and 5.8ish climbing to the top. There's another new bolted belay on the left side of the formation. Oct 23, 2014