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Routes in (p) Godzilla Face

Baby Cobra T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Godzilla's Return T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Komodo Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mecca Godzilla T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A1
Montezuma's Revenge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: John Long and H. Aprin, April 1972
Page Views: 218 total · 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This was a bold route at the time of its first ascent. Today, many people bypass the runout 5.10D face on the second pitch, removing the "R" rating. The first pitch has an interesting sequence (5.10D) of thin moves by the first bolt. On the second pitch, an exposed 5.10A mantle leads to your choice of runout 5.10D (original way) or the 5.9 detour (runout and not boring) on the left. Pitch 3 has some runout moves (5.10A or B) on a low angle face.

Protection

bolts plus a light rack

Photos

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Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Did this route a long time ago upon spying it from the descent. Thought it was Small Affair Direct! Realized it wasn't the previously mentioned climb when doing the "Toad's Lip Mantle" at the start of P2. I kept thinking "I must be screwing this up it doesn't feel like 5.8". Did the arete variation (5.10b R/X in the guidebook) Fred managed to find a spike to sling. Mar 5, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10d R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10d R
This great route is a fairly serious lead. The first pitch is reasonable but the second pitch is NOT for the timid. After the first two, the third pitch seemed considerably easier. Mar 24, 2006
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
 
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
 
Great,classic route for trad. Some long runouts previously off 1/4 in. bolts, but well worth repeating. May 2, 2008
Once again... It's possible to combine the first two pitches which results in a more adventurous undertaking. Sep 9, 2008
Tradiban  
 
Maybe a chip broke at the first bolt? I could not figure it out despite climbing two 10d's earlier. I started a bit further left and soloed to the second bolt at about 5.8. I took the "5.9 R" variation which is more like X rated. Did the Toads lip, clipped the bolt, traversed all the way left then back right to the second bolt, pretty bold but good climbing. P3 was ok but had plenty of weak flakes to watch put for. Descended via Rebolting development, 3 raps with a 60. Sep 18, 2016
johannsolo
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
I just did the start a couple of weeks ago and felt like hard 10 to me, nothing broke. Nov 7, 2017

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