Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Tom Higgins and Pat Ament
Page Views: 1,629 total · 10/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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This route follows a large, left-facing dihedral to the left of Le Dent (5.6 R) for one long pitch. Excellent hand and fist jamming (crux) on clean rock leads to a flared chimney above. Because of the dihedral, this climb is not in the sun until the afternoon.


a large rack, up to a #3.5 or #4 camalot


San Diego, CA
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
Old school 10a. While the moves may not be over 10a this cimb is very continuous and athletic. You will breathe hard. A #5 is not a bad idea for the start if you like being well protected. Mar 18, 2007
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
If you're over by the south face, then you must hop on this guy. Old school is right (FA in the 60s)! Burly start (5.9ish squeeze) to continuous, awkward fist jamming in a dihedral (10a). Lots of grunty chimneying (5.8) will bring you to the finishing moves, which involve a moss covered traverse on good jugs with horrible feet. Super pitch! Oct 15, 2007
Beautiful brutality! I used a #5 C4 up high in the thrutching chimney. Stick with it! Mar 12, 2014
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
Strenuous but always there. The squeeze at the bottom might be the crux for some. If fists are your weakness (like me), this climb will feel challenging for the grade.

This is probably one of the cooler crack climbs in Idyllwild. Too bad it's way out at Le Dent or it would receive hundreds more ascents per year, but maybe that's a good thing! May 4, 2015