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Routes in (c) Le Dent Pinnacle

Dammit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Floating Log T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Forest Lawn A2+
Hey Vic, Over Here T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Holiday T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jammit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Le Dent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Le Petite Gratton T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Munge Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Reunion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Root Canal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
South Arete T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Steal Your Face TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sugar Magnolia T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Tom Higgins and Pat Ament
Page Views: 1,480 total, 10/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route follows a large, left-facing dihedral to the left of Le Dent (5.6 R) for one long pitch. Excellent hand and fist jamming (crux) on clean rock leads to a flared chimney above. Because of the dihedral, this climb is not in the sun until the afternoon.

Protection

a large rack, up to a #3.5 or #4 camalot

Photos

Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10a
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.10a
Strenuous but always there. The squeeze at the bottom might be the crux for some. If fists are your weakness (like me), this climb will feel challenging for the grade.

This is probably one of the cooler crack climbs in Idyllwild. Too bad it's way out at Le Dent or it would receive hundreds more ascents per year, but maybe that's a good thing! May 4, 2015
Tradiban  
 
Beautiful brutality! I used a #5 C4 up high in the thrutching chimney. Stick with it! Mar 12, 2014
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
If you're over by the south face, then you must hop on this guy. Old school is right (FA in the 60s)! Burly start (5.9ish squeeze) to continuous, awkward fist jamming in a dihedral (10a). Lots of grunty chimneying (5.8) will bring you to the finishing moves, which involve a moss covered traverse on good jugs with horrible feet. Super pitch! Oct 15, 2007
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
Old school 10a. While the moves may not be over 10a this cimb is very continuous and athletic. You will breathe hard. A #5 is not a bad idea for the start if you like being well protected. Mar 18, 2007