Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,793 total · 43/month
Shared By: david baker on Feb 1, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

88 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details


Milk bar is the perfect finger crack that you will see as you face the rock. The crux comes near the top.You lieback the small roof to pull through crux. Crack takes small cams stem out for good feet. This is a fairly soft 5.9 and a fun classic.


Use small cams (yellow and green aliens work well). Gear anchor in crack at top of climb use medium size cams.


This is a very good climb. Try climbing it without using the crack. Jan 29, 2007
Fun climbing that is not entirely trivial. Kind of low angle with good friction. If you are going to lead it, all you need is a couple of yellow TCUs and a couple of blue TCUs to be very well protected. May 8, 2008
Galloway, NJ
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
Short yet fun 5.8! Mar 21, 2009
Jonathan Bent
San Diego, CA
Jonathan Bent   San Diego, CA
The (nicely illustrative) picture is slightly deceptive. I remember being struck by how much shorter/smaller this climb looked in person... Aug 21, 2010
San Diego, CA
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
A great climb for its length. But a very soft 5.9...In case it isn't obvious enough, there is a very loose horn at the start that could easily become detached. Fortunately, it's pretty easy to bypass... Nov 30, 2014
Mackenan Grassi  
I definitely recommend climbing this one both as a layback/finger crack and as a stemmy dihedral. The difficulty doesn't really change either way, it just makes for two fun and very different ways to get to the top. Jun 13, 2016
jt newgard
San Diego, CA
jt newgard   San Diego, CA
The loose flake referred to by alleyehave has indeed ripped off. It's sitting to the left of the start area in the dirt.

That said the start is still very manageable. There might even be a new foothold, just a little lower than the other one! Haha

I had more fun on this little rig than the lieback at the end of pitch one of Fingertrip. Milkbar actually lasts longer and of course has the cool bulge to pull through. Dec 1, 2018