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Routes in (j) Paisano Pinnacle

Continuation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Eyes Wide Shut T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantle of No Return T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Mushy Peach T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Paisano Jam Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Paisano Overhang T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Paisano Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Skigliak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Step Away, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Superfly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Wise Guys T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mark Powell, Don Wilson, and Frank Hoover, February 1955
Page Views: 1,018 total · 7/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is apparently the earliest recorded climb at Suicide Rock. The first ascent party brought a jug of Paisano with them, and left the empty bottle on top of the pinnacle. It's a short, clean 4" wide offwidth. From Paisano ledge, walk into the slot behind the pinnacle, and you will see this route on your left.

Protection

several #3.5 and #4 camalots

Photos

- No Photos -
Frank Hoover was a very active member of the So. Cal chapter of the Rock Climbing Section (RCS) of the Sierra Club, and he was a dear friend of my family. He was also one of the funniest people ever to wear human skin. Always totting a camera, he took early pictures of many of the legendary climbers, like Royal Robbins & Bob Kamps.

That they left an empty bottle of wine on top and christened the pinnacle with its name is of no surprise...Frank did pranks like that all the time. When he was a student at UCLA he climbed to the tip of one of the spires on top of the old Ackerman Student Union Building and tied a hub cap there. It hung in that proud place for a few weeks until the buildings & grounds people finally knocked it off from a ladder...but...that rope remained draped to the spire for decades...it may very well still be there now...I saw it in '83, so who knows?

Frank lives in the high desert north of LA, and he is 90, and has long since retired from his post as a research biochemist at UCLA. Twice he lost his home and all he owned...including countless priceless photographs... to fire, but he always kept his spirits up....and he is still the funniest human who ever lived.

So, when you climb this route and sit atop Paisano Pinnacle, give a little nod to good old Frank Hoover...one of the original Prankster Climbers... and try to think of where they left that darn wine bottle! Apr 10, 2015
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
The business on this is really short, the first 15' right off the ground, where it's just shy of vertical, then the angles kicks way back. Too short to recommend, even though the climbing and rock are good. Aug 24, 2009