[Hide Comment] I started to lead this and ended up downclimbing because I couldn't find much solid pro, just a crap nut placement and a spot where my smallest cam only found two lobes worth of purchase. If you own a big bro you could certainly use it here. None of us were ever able to find the bolt on the left -- does it no longer exist? All we saw were the bolts for Minuet. Later three of us top-roped the climb, and even so I ended up failing the nasty exit at the top. Couldn't manage to lock in a chicken wing or any other technique that worked. Aug 16, 2015

[Hide Comment] This is actually an amazing climb demanding all kinds of off width and chimney skills... leg bars, back stepping, body squeezes, leg bracing, knee locking, all kinds of stuff! The topo in the old vogel guide says there is a bolt. But to answer your question from the other comment... The bolt has been chopped. Yes the route protects poorly due to the fact that its a giant off width with a body swallowing chimney in the back!! i placed a small nut in the beginning before getting into the business. then I believe a #4 c4 where the crack goes right. then a .75 c4 under the big protruding nose-like rock, as a well as a #5 way up in the crack before making the final moves out, which consisted of some strenuous/awkward hand jams in the back of the crack. Seems a wee bit harder then the given grade though so just be prepared to fight for this one. If you like chimneys and off widths, its worth it!! Sep 26, 2016

[Hide Comment] the bolt is in the exact spot it has been forever. it is an old quarter incher without a hanger, but still has the nut. no reason to use it though. fun climb that is, 7plus...lol. full value... a little bit run, but you can always fall into the slot...

And definitely not worthy of a BOMB. Dec 7, 2020