Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Limbo Area

Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Craig's Chimney TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow Boulder S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deviate Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Digitalis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape From The Underworld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indecision TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Kathy's Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Revision TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Deviation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top of the Pops. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tower, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Chute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Volume I TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,913 total · 27/month
Shared By: david baker on Jan 31, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


103 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is the dihedral directly south of As the Crow Flys. The climb is actually 5.6 except for the bouldery move getting into the dihedral. This is a good intro to crack climbing. The crack takes good gear the whole way and there are great feet on either side of the dihedral. Use Anchor and rap rings for As the Crow Flys. Step left to ledge at top of climb to reach bolts. There are several top rope problems that can be done on either side of Turkey Chute ranging from 5.6-5.9

Protection

.75-3 cams Bolt anchor and rap rings. There are two additional bolts directly on top of Turkey Chute with an easy walk off if you choose not to rap.

Photos

Jer Om
San Diego, CA
  5.7
Jer Om   San Diego, CA
  5.7
Boulder problem to start off is much tougher than the rest of the route. Fun practice for placing passive Pro. You can do variations such as using no dihedral or practicing crack. Pretty popular so expect to see chalk on the good crack holds. Dec 6, 2016
Mattrofact
  5.7
Mattrofact  
  5.7
Nice, fun climb, though a little dirty. It is located in a popular spot that can get rather crowded. In the past, climbers have had to keep on the lookout for bee swarms. Feb 27, 2016
Tom Thomas
Pittsburgh
Tom Thomas   Pittsburgh
I found this route to be fun, but with that said is was also quite dirty. A purple o metolus cam protects the start and the rest is just 5 fun. Here are some long arm pics of me solo leading this route.




Jul 28, 2015
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
 
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
 
Put two new screw links and rap rings up on this route this past Saturday. Great beginner trad lead. Using a 0-00 TCU on the right as mentioned by Rocky protects the bouldery move onto to the ledge. Jun 16, 2014
Andrew TST  
 
Great boulder problem start but not possible to protect you would get a nice double bonk if you fell. Both quicklinks are no longer there so if you don't want to walk down, down climb to the Crow and rap off. Sep 25, 2013
Industrialwrench
El Cajon, Ca
  5.6
Industrialwrench   El Cajon, Ca
  5.6
Both rap rings are there, but it's a safe solo. The little boulder problem at the start is the crux, just finish it off as a highball. Oct 29, 2012
attila
 
attila  
 
One rap ring is missing, but you can easily rap from As The Crow Flies anchor/rap (down and left). Feb 23, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
This was my 2nd trad lead route. For me the first section to get on the actual ledge is the crux. Placed a nut just on the right side of the rock before the ledge. Then once I made it up on the ledge it was fairly fun placing pro on the crack or either side of the wall. There's an anchor with quick links straight up above the route. Just keep going straight up and you will find it on top. Aug 12, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This is a great climb - nothing like a low-angle dihedral with great gear! I second the opinion regarding the start. Jan 27, 2008