Gumby boy king
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[Hide Comment] Nice route, unique for the area pretty steep pumpy and techy! Trying to figure out what's a hold and not in the upper scoopy section is a challenge! Bolts pretty old for a lead, best to climb the big tree to set up a top rope.
Nov 1, 2020
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Matt Beebe
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[Hide Comment] I notice that this climb is labeled with an S, as in sport climb. A sport climb it is Not! I'm pretty sure it was put up on lead. Also, after the fourth bolt, there is a long runout to the anchor on 11+ sustained terrain with a final difficult move that you would defiantly not want to fall from on lead. I've only climbed it on TR and was super pumped at the end. I shudder to think about leading it. I don't know what the fall would be from the final hard moves but you'd come very close to the ground in my estimate. This route should be rated 12b, R. Has anyone other than Tom Gilgi lead it? Anyway, as far as difficulty rating is concerned, my opinion is that it felt like an old school, 12a bouldery section into sustained, pumpy, 11d climbing to the end. When you put it together it certainly feels like solid 12b. The original 3/8s button head bolts seem like there in ok condition for the lead, but you be the judge. Any bad-asses out there?
Jan 20, 2021
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