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Pinhead

5.12b PG13, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Tom Gilje & Scott Erler, 1987
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (f) Limp Dick

Description

Begin by climbing the tree until able to transition onto the rock; a sling around the tree provides some protection before the first bolt. Once established on the face traverse slightly left and then launch up thin, technical moves to a somewhat pumping finish on larger holds.

Overall a very good route with a scenic location, excellent rock and intriguing movement that's a welcome diversion from the slab climbing so common to the area.

Location

This atypical route is found on the bulging west face of the formation which has a large pine tree growing near the base.

Protection

4 bolts (5/16"), anchors

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Nice route, unique for the area pretty steep pumpy and techy! Trying to figure out what's a hold and not in the upper scoopy section is a challenge! Bolts pretty old for a lead, best to climb the big tree to set up a top rope. Nov 1, 2020
[Hide Comment] I notice that this climb is labeled with an S, as in sport climb. A sport climb it is Not! I'm pretty sure it was put up on lead. Also, after the fourth bolt, there is a long runout to the anchor on 11+ sustained terrain with a final difficult move that you would defiantly not want to fall from on lead. I've only climbed it on TR and was super pumped at the end. I shudder to think about leading it. I don't know what the fall would be from the final hard moves but you'd come very close to the ground in my estimate. This route should be rated 12b, R. Has anyone other than Tom Gilgi lead it? Anyway, as far as difficulty rating is concerned, my opinion is that it felt like an old school, 12a bouldery section into sustained, pumpy, 11d climbing to the end. When you put it together it certainly feels like solid 12b. The original 3/8s button head bolts seem like there in ok condition for the lead, but you be the judge. Any bad-asses out there? Jan 20, 2021