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Routes in Pearly Gates

Albatross T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Angelic Curses T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bring your Weedwacker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Celestial Groove T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cell Phone Posse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dog Ate My Topo, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Easy Pickins T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Delicious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Heavens Sake T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hepped Up on Goofballs. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Last Rites T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leap of Faith T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Loaves of Fun T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Souls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Meathooks of Mercy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Milky Way S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Room For Squares T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pearly Gates T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Poison Balance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purgatory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scene is Clean, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Speak No Evil S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
TOOL TIME S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veins of Glory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ron Cotman, Gordon Briody, Pauline Hsieh, Mike Croswaite
Page Views: 296 total, 2/month
Shared By: ScottH on Jan 29, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Milky Way is the 3rd bolted route from the right side of the Pearly Gates buttress, and begins up an obvious, left facing dihedral. Climb the dihedral (5.10), traverse left ~15 feet, and follow a line of bolts up interesting, slabby climbing to a ledge and belay from chains. The second pitch (better than the first) heads up straight off the belay for another 100' of fantastic climbing. After the initial 5.10 moves up and out of the dihedral, this climb delivers close to 200' of consistent, interesting 5.9 climbing.

Getting off this climb is a rope stretcher! When lowering off the second pitch our 60m rope wasn't quite long enough to reach back to the ledge-- the climber can lower to the left of the belay and downclimb easy terrain. Likewise, reaching the ground from the ledge may require a two rope rappell (even with 60's). Alternatively, walk right on the ledge to the Dog Ate My Topo anchors.

Protection

P1- 8 bolts, P2 9 bolts

Photos

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Jacob Sustrich
  5.10- PG13
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.10- PG13
This route is wicked. The climbing until you clip the first bolt all felt very insecure for me. I think I placed a #2 in the lower crack from the starting stance, and then a .5 a bit above before reaching the bolt. The feet until the first bolt are all super smear-y and hard to keep (for me). So, if the first bit is putting you off this route, just get through it and you won't regret May 31, 2017
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.10b
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.10b
As of 6/29/14 the first bolt has no hanger on it.

This was probably done intentionally by someone as there is plenty of gear to be had in the dihedral. Bring a piece or two for this section as this is the ~.10b crux of the route.

The 15' traverse left is pretty easy (~5.7). After that it's sustained, fun 5.9 for the rest of the pitch.

Second pitch is definitely worth doing. Slightly easier than the first and not as heady. Jul 16, 2014