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Routes in Sickle Crack Boulder

Sickle Crack T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, TR, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,871 total, 27/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Jan 29, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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39 Opinions

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Sickle Crack has a prominent sickle shaped crack on its South side. The climb may be climbed using pure offwidth technique (5.8+) or lieback (5.10+).

Protection

Standard rack plus LARGE cams. Two bolt anchor.

Photos

MariaZ
  5.9
MariaZ  
  5.9
Led this today. I used a BD 3, 5 and 6 but I felt a little sketched out since I tried to lead it without ever climbing it before. I think you could get away with a 3 and a 5 if you wanted to protect it reasonably. Crack takes gear exceedingly well.

I think a 5.9 is fair and is consistant with other offwidth Woodson ratings. I think its as hard as big grunt (5.9) (not counting the beginning move), harder than the tower two chimney (5.8) and easier than the crucible (5.10c). Jul 23, 2017
Addem Bursh
  5.8+
Addem Bursh  
  5.8+
One 4 inch cam, and one 5 inch cam, should take you home. May 22, 2014
Sking
  5.8
Sking  
  5.8
Really cool offwidth. The knee jams are bomber. Starts with hands, then fists, then stacking hands, then chicken wings. There is one hanger on top of the rock that I put a runner on to gain access to the TR bolts. Glad somebody put that hanger there because it would be a little spicy to set up the TR and walk off without it. Oct 3, 2013
I've always considered Sickle the 5.8 "standard" for OW cracks, and that's as a lead climb.
When the gym climbers leave the safety of their nest, they are very strong but totally lack crack skills. The upward creep in crack ratings the last decade is the result of their frustration and ineptitude. Jul 1, 2009
Marc Kajut
San Diego, CA
 
Marc Kajut   San Diego, CA  
 
I'll suggest a 5.8+ as I personally think it's harder than 5.8 but easier than 5.9; however, since '96 many other climbers have climbed SC at 5.9 and accepted Kennedy's upgrade from Brueckner's published rating. Consensus says... Mar 27, 2007
G.McCay
Galloway, NJ
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
5.8(OW) on a TR from 1981 to 1996...what happened? Mar 26, 2007