5.7,
Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.8 from 8
votes
FA: Barry Chambers, Bruce Price September 1988
California
> Southern-Wester…
> Hwy 168:Tollhou…
> Tollhouse Rock
> Main Wall
Description
From Tollhouse Traverse and Elephant Walk, continue climbers left across the face to a deep chimney with a ledge and arete to its right. Old Fart's Edge starts up this slabby arete. The Southern Sierra guidebook gives this route 5.6, but its more like 5.7-5.8 in places.
The first belay is a bit right of the end of the chimney, at about 150 feet. The second pitch features a traverse to a thin crack system, then runout climbing to the second belay. The climbing eases off after that, to the dihedral for Tollhouse traverse or the bolted slab.
Protection
Bolts. A bit runout in places. Bring a set of nuts and cams for a crack on the second pitch. Use a 60m rope.