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Jaws

5.11a V1, Trad, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 168 votes
FA: unknown
California > San Diego County > N San Diego County > Mt Woodson > Jaws Boulder Area > Jaws Vicinity

Description

Jaws is the mean looking finger crack on the north face of JAWS. The climb widens from fingers to thin hands with insecure feet.

Protection

Boulder problem, Standard Rack. Gear Anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I don't wanna beta spray, but once you find the sneaky no-hands rest this climb becomes literally a no-brainer. Would be a 5.5 in my gym.
[Hide Photo] I don't wanna beta spray, but once you find the sneaky no-hands rest this climb becomes literally a no-brainer. Would be a 5.5 in my gym.
Please don't be as stupid as i was..
[Hide Photo] Please don't be as stupid as i was..
Sonja Djuricin on Jaws
[Hide Photo] Sonja Djuricin on Jaws
Reasonable Boulder problem just don't fall
[Hide Photo] Reasonable Boulder problem just don't fall
Jaws (5.11a/V1)
[Hide Photo] Jaws (5.11a/V1)
Casey is Chief Brody to this climb. After this lap he actually took a scuba tank out of his pack, placed it at the base and started taking shots at it with a rifle.  Wild days on Woodson
[Hide Photo] Casey is Chief Brody to this climb. After this lap he actually took a scuba tank out of his pack, placed it at the base and started taking shots at it with a rifle. Wild days on Woodson
Ringlocking up Jaws
[Hide Photo] Ringlocking up Jaws
She's got it dialed!
[Hide Photo] She's got it dialed!
Jo running another TR lap on Jaws.
[Hide Photo] Jo running another TR lap on Jaws.
On the way to the top of Jaws
[Hide Photo] On the way to the top of Jaws
Adam Kimmerly on Jaws
[Hide Photo] Adam Kimmerly on Jaws
John Cardmon  2-25-12
[Hide Photo] John Cardmon 2-25-12

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a V1
[Hide Comment] Direct crack climbing leading to a liebacking move or two is how this route is often done. Very clean Feb 10, 2006
[Hide Comment] Rick Piggott did the first ascent of this around 1976. It was originally rated 5.10c as I recall. Mar 11, 2006
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.11a V1
[Hide Comment] Interesting that I am forced to give this a V grade. I would call climbing this ropeless more of a solo than a boulder problem. If there is really a difference I guess not but this is a very bold boulder problem. Jan 20, 2007
426
 
[Hide Comment] Hehe, 10d in the ol' Fry guide iirc. Solid. Mar 21, 2007
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
[Hide Comment] Fun, but over-rated. And that picture make it look three times longer than it is. 2.5 out of 4. Jan 10, 2010
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
[Hide Comment] Ryan doesn't know what he's talking about. Awesome line that really tests you in a lot of pure jamming sizes, without constrictions. Jan 12, 2010
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
[Hide Comment] Camhead didn't send until we put tic marks (1 for thumbs down, 2 for thumbs up jams, differentiating between right and left hands) all the way up the 10 foot climb. Jan 18, 2010
EliotAC
Mill Valley
 
[Hide Comment] Jaws graffiti removal...
youtube.com/watch?v=t099fv8… Feb 26, 2011
[Hide Comment] A toprope is highly recommend because the crux is at the top and it is very insecure, fairly high and a fall could get weird... Definitely feels like .11a (or V1) to me, but it's seen a variety of grades over the years. Natural gear needed to set up the TR, by the way, or used to be.

Yet more perfect Woodson granite here, and highly recommended..really nice. Jun 3, 2018
Brian Lion
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] One of the best at Woody. Feels true to an 11a grade unlike a lot of the sandbagged grades here. Locks are not too sharp, super solid and its a great climb to learn finger locks on. crux is in the middle not at top. never the less if you are not 100% confident in soloing it, TR it up with #1 and .75 cams or big nuts for the anchor. or lead it with a couple .5s Oct 8, 2018
Yoda Jedi Knight
Cashmere, WA
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb; fingers to ring locks/lieback to thin hands. It's funny how the thin hands at the top feel so solid yet they would be the worst jams on Robbins.

I haven't lead it but it looks like 0.3-0.5. A couple 1's for the anchor.

I thought this was easier than Digit's but I haven't spent nearly as much time on that one. Feb 1, 2021
slim

  5.10c
[Hide Comment] really nice line. i used a .75 camalot (too old to boulder :) ). some great thumbstacking, didn't think to lay it back. the feet are surprisingly solid. Feb 1, 2021
Christian Zao
Orange Chaicken
  5.11a V1
[Hide Comment] Starts with good fingers then moves to nice ring locks for most of the climb. Ends with a move or two of thin hands. Classic for the area! lock up and go! Jan 28, 2022