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Routes in Hear My Train A Comin' Boulder

Black Finger T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hear My Train A Comin' T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Razor's Edge TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V0+ 4+
Scream Seam TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: John Bachar
Page Views: 5,408 total, 37/month
Shared By: david baker on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This is an over hanging finger crack that widens as you climb. The first ten feet of this climb is the crux and great practise for over hanging aid. After the crux the climb backs off and the crack widens. If you want to learn aid climbing in relative safety this is a great climb to get started on.

Protection

Use small nuts and cams up to #2 towards the top of the climb. Two bolts at top of rock for anchor. Easy walk off back of rock.

Photos

Sdm1568
Ca
Sdm1568   Ca
Nice! I remember helping you film this - I miss all the beta you used to throw at me Gary, and old stories about the climbs. When you're back in SD hit me up for a climb or two Sep 26, 2012
G.McCay
Galloway, NJ
  5.11c/d
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
  5.11c/d
Adam,

Thanks for posting the video link...;-) Feb 4, 2011
dtomczik
Bishop, CA
  5.11c C1
dtomczik   Bishop, CA
  5.11c C1
Fun and classic Woodson. Only a couple of crux moves off the ground make HMT an awesome boulder problem. Or you can even batman up a rope to gain access to the clean, upper corner. May 10, 2010
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11d C1
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11d C1
Here is a cool video of this "boulder problem" Jan 2, 2010
My sometimes unreliable memory recalls Rick Piggot telling me that it had already been freed before Bachar's ascent. Locals had been bear-hugging up an oak tree and reaching out into the good finger locks past the crux.

Then Bachar showed up and onsight flashed it from the ground, and I think Rick told me it was 3rd classed too.

It sent all the locals running over there to try the additional moves.

The convenient tree limb is long gone now. And all this was in the 70's, before I was hanging out there. Sep 17, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11d C1
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11d C1
Named after a semi-obscure Jimi Hendrix song Jun 25, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11d C1
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11d C1
If someone wanted to go to the trouble to aid it, today's finger-sized cams will easily get one up in a flash. Feb 2, 2007
G.McCay
Galloway, NJ
  5.11c/d
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
  5.11c/d
Here are some excerpts from an email from myself to JB regarding it's FA:

John,
...P.S. Fill me in on the story behind "I Hear My Train a Comin'" on Mt. Woodson. Rumor has it that you third classed this on it's first ascent. I've always wondered over the years.
==============================================

From: bachar
Date Sent:
Mar 4, 2006, 12:37 PM

Hey Gary! Thanks for the compliments! I'm pretty sure I did the first as a boulder problem but I also could have top-roped it first - just can't remember. I know I did Drivin' South as a bouldering first ascent however - pretty scary!
cheers, jb
==============================================

Peace,

Mr. McCay Nov 22, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11d C1
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11d C1
FA was John Bachar's onsight solo. Feb 22, 2006