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Routes in Sunday Afternoon Boulder

East Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
North East Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North East Dihedral T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Hand Traverse TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Victim of AIDS T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0
Type: Trad, TR, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,390 total, 17/month
Shared By: david baker on Jan 28, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Obvious hand crack/flake with flared offwidth at top.There are two finishes on this short high quality climb. 1. at top of hand crack continue the last 10 feet up off width chimney (grind your way up). 2. Stand up and lie back the upper edge of the chimney(much easier)This is a good practise climb to get ready for other Woodson classics.

Protection

Use cams .75-2 the crack takes good pro and there are lots of good feet to the left of the crack as well as in the crack.Anchor by using red and yellow aliens or small cams in horizontal crack at ledge above climb.

Photos

Safty Third
San Diego, CA
  5.9-
Safty Third   San Diego, CA
  5.9-
I'd also give this a 5.9 because of how awkward the jams are, and how unstable it feels going from the hand into the offwidth. Fun climb. I didn't use gear, but it is definitely a no fall zone where it gets tricky, so if you're in doubt use the gear. Hurt pride is way easier to recover from than a wrecked ankle. Oct 22, 2016
G.McCay
Galloway, NJ
5.9
G.McCay   Galloway, NJ
5.9
I rated this classic layback/highball 5.9 all the years I was on Woodson. See the barrel chested, Professor Keith Brueckner depicted on the cover of the 1987 Woodson guide on the same problem at: illusiondweller.blogspot.co… Apr 5, 2007
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.8
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.8
There are bolts for an anchor. For entertainment value, climb the short face which the bolts reside on top of to finish off the climb. Sep 22, 2006