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Blade Runner

5.12b, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 11 votes
FA: (TR) Bob Gaines, September 1986, FL: Steve Sutton & Clark Jacobs, December 1991
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (l) Buttress of… > Buttress of Cracks -…

Description

 Climb Warm Up for about 10' or so and then cut right to the amazing arete. Subtle yet taxing moves up the arete lead to a technical crux just before the last bolt, after which it's a cruise to the top.

This is a great climb that requires good footwork and balance...cooler temps don't hurt either. It's possible to climb the arete on either side, but I found it easier to move to the right side after the first bolt and then cut back onto the left side just below the last bolt.

Location

Starts with the first bit of Warm Up then breaks right.

Protection

3 bolts, anchors (all 3/8"), 3 inch piece for the start

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Bob Gaines on the first ascent, 1986.
[Hide Photo] Bob Gaines on the first ascent, 1986.
Ian Eisenberg on Blade Runner!!!
[Hide Photo] Ian Eisenberg on Blade Runner!!!
Blade Runner (5.12a/b) follows the sharp arete.
[Hide Photo] Blade Runner (5.12a/b) follows the sharp arete.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] As of my last visit (1/07), I could only locate two bolts on this route. Jan 12, 2007
Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] The first bolt is on the right side of the arete. The second and third bolts are on the left side of the arete. Jan 23, 2007
[Hide Comment] Certainly solid 12b in my opinion. I find it easier to climb the middle section of the route on the steep side of the Arete. Excellent TR and a bold lead. Clark Jacobs told me that when he was bolting it with Steve Sutton he asked Steve why he was choosing to place the bolts there. Steve replied, because thats where they go. Haha! Classic Sutton! May 29, 2022