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Superfluous Bolt

5.10a R, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 21 votes
FA: Ivan Couch, Mike Cohen, and Mike Dent
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (v) N Face

Description

My strongest memory of this climb is its serious runout (and I was following)! Down low, it's tricky but well protected. Then you head up a long, thin left-facing flake system with no gear. The crux move at the top of the flake can be protected (sort of) with a small wired nut. Pitch 2 is short and easy. Walk off right to descend.

Protection

2 bolts, plus small to medium gear

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nearing the first bolt on Superfluous Bolt. The climb then follows the left facing flake in the very upper left corner of the photo.
[Hide Photo] Nearing the first bolt on Superfluous Bolt. The climb then follows the left facing flake in the very upper left corner of the photo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This climb requires small protection. I made use of a black alien which I usually try to avoid and another in that range would have been used if I had it. Bring all of your trick small gear. Micro nuts and offset small cams will be helpful although not necessary. Skill in gear placement can make this climb safe by Suicide standards but don't make this your first trad lead. Bring up to 2" gear.

Make sure to study the topo. For a while I thought I was supposed to go onto a 10d R face climb to the left of the route and I was getting worried. Then I saw the next bolt of Superfluous Bolt (camoflauged) above my head and realized that was the way to go.

There are at least two bolts on this climb, all of high quality. Mar 18, 2007
Brandon R
CA
  5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] There are a total of two bolts on this route, and I have to admit that I didn't think that either were superfluous! Only "trick" gear I placed were a couple smaller offset nuts. May 19, 2008
justin marquis
 
[Hide Comment] Fun aesthetic climbing, wish the dihedral was longer..
nice belay stance...

Hard to protect at spots. bring some small gear.....

Does anyone have any of the history on the name? I found all the bolts on this route to be necessary..... Jul 19, 2009
Adam Kimmerly
[Hide Comment] I didn't think the pro on this route was really that bad. PG, maybe, but definitely not deserving of an R rating. The only sketchy pro section was the easy climbing in the thin flakes before reaching the dihedral where the second bolt is. Careful placement of smaller gear should hold any short fall you might take there. Regardless, interesting climbing the whole way, and a worthwhile route.

I wonder if the "superfluous bolt" is the one on the slab to the climber's right about 2/3 of the way up the dihedral. I haven't been able to figure out what route that's on... if any at all. Aug 3, 2009
Darrell Hensel
 
[Hide Comment] The bolt mentioned that is out to the right is on Shine On, the straight up continuation of Obscured By Clouds. When the previous comments were made Shine On was still unfinished, which is no longer true. Sep 17, 2009
dnaiscool
 
[Hide Comment] Back in '91 there was a route sandwiched between this and The Guillotine. It follows that very thin right facing flake system. I led it back then, thinking the difficulties to be .11b at the upper bolt. It started at 5.9+ and its own blot lower down. Anybody know the name of this? It was sorta scary, and I was glad the bolt was there to protect the crux.
I wrote "#2 Loweball" in my guide as pro in the runout section. Mar 23, 2015