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Hangman's Climb

5.10a, Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 123 votes
FA: Steve McKinney, Milo Pradonovitch
California > San Diego County > S San Diego County > Mission Gorge > Main Wall

Description

The difficult portion of this climb is right at the start between the 1st and 2nd bolts with some interesting footwork. The climb follows a ramp up and right, then traverses back to the left to a V slot.

Protection

Five (5) bolt protection. Two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topping out on Hangman's climb
[Hide Photo] Topping out on Hangman's climb
Stemming out to clip the second bolt on Hangman's Climb.
[Hide Photo] Stemming out to clip the second bolt on Hangman's Climb.
Top of the crux.
[Hide Photo] Top of the crux.
Starting Hangman
[Hide Photo] Starting Hangman
Hangman's Climb (5.9)
[Hide Photo] Hangman's Climb (5.9)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Fun route. The third bolt has been moved to a location that negates the necessity of supplemental gear on this route. The old SDCC guide mentioned a #4 TCU being necessary. The placement is still there if you want it, but the route is not runout or dangerous without it. Apr 4, 2006
MAR
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Great Climb! The start moves on this may be 10a-ish if you are under 5.5. All finishing variations on this climb are good, but if you are going to set up a top rope it may be easiest to head straight up to the Obverse the Gap anchors past the last bolt. This, with a directional on the second bolt, makes for an awesome(low swing) TR. Enjoy! Apr 11, 2011
johnnydanger
California
5.10a
[Hide Comment] It was a hard start for me being 5'7. I was able to follow the rail to the right and up into the larger holds and to the ledge for a quick break. After that it was smooth sailing to complete the onsight. Pretty stoked and a fun climb. 5.10 moves at the bottom are what make the climb! May 8, 2011
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Haven't finished this one free, yet. The start is a bit scary. 1st bolt almost useless for safety. The second bolt is a tad high and at the crux of the climb. Jan 21, 2012
[Hide Comment] The first bolt on this route is loose. 2012-06-15. Jun 16, 2012
Mike Memmel
Ramona, Ca
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Tightened first bolt. Successful onsite lead. Felt like a deck potential clipping the third bolt. I didn't see where the original 3rd bolt was...must have been nasty. Oct 17, 2012
[Hide Comment] One of the anchor bolt is spinning and rusty. Mar 31, 2014
[Hide Comment] Definitely a hard start! Chills out quite a bit after the first two bolts. Jul 6, 2014
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] all of the bolts looked good as of 4/1/17, however for some people not comfortable at the grade, the bolts were a little spaced out and due to the nature of it being a wandering route its a little worrisome what a fall at the wrong spot would do to the climber. Apr 2, 2017
[Hide Comment] First bolt spins a bit but is still solid. Really only there so if you fall, you and your belayer dont roll off the slab. Would still deck. Bolts 3 and 4, best to use alpine and extend to reduce rope drag. Fun route! Bouldery start with fun corner to top out. Sep 8, 2018
[Hide Comment] People really seem to struggle at the beginning but I thought it was the most fun part of the climb.To the third bolt is pretty runout and while an easy walk, a fall would pretty much land you on the ground or swinging into the rock. Regardless, a fun climb! Bolts were good today. Jul 30, 2020
Jordan Burkhardt
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This is a great route. The bolts are in good positions. Apr 28, 2023
Harris Kashtan
  5.10a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] Challenging climb that felt a little hard for 10a. Only reason I put the PG rating was because the crux is between the 1st and 2nd bolt so there is definitely some deck potential if you blow it. Rest of the climb after the second bolt felt chill. May 17, 2023
Mason Gatz
San Diego
 
[Hide Comment] Bouldery start. Top half of the climb has some quality rock.

Loose flake near the top labeled with a chalk x. Jun 24, 2023