[Hide Comment] The upper crack starts as #1 Camalot, but is mostly #2 Camalot. The first pitch protects perfectly with Aliens. There is a rest 1/4 the way up. Can easily be done as one pitch with the lieback start or one of the two 5.8 handcracks around the arete to the right. Feb 2, 2006

[Hide Comment] A classic route. The left (layback) start protects perfectly with #0.5 Camalots or red Aliens. The upper crack does go from #1-#3 Camalots as the previous comment mentions. A good rack would be one set of small cams/TCUs, and then doubles of #1-#3 Camalots + nuts. I also did the right start which was fun, but not as enjoyable as the layback in my opinion. Jul 3, 2006

[Hide Comment] Lower left crack (before intermediate ledge) is inward flaring, I think that's what the OP meant by 'harder to protect. Mar 25, 2012

[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=ZaLcbe6… Aug 4, 2013

[Hide Comment] Another nice video. Good job.

A little drama on the layback at the start, but then a jam cruise. Aug 5, 2013

[Hide Comment] #2 camalot is still fixed near top of pitch. I believe if you use the Even Steven approach (eg right side of the arête) then the whole thing is only 5.8 Sep 8, 2014

[Hide Comment] Some serious taping on those hands... in the video Dec 30, 2016

[Hide Comment] Fun climb. Felt easier and better protected than the other 5.9 classics at the Lower Town Wall. Bust a move off the ground and place your crux pro above your head from a great stance. Pull the couple of crux layback moves with that gear at your waist, then continue up easy ground that's protects well with nuts to the base of the upper crack. The upper crack starts as a very tight #3 size (#3 cam not necessary), but is otherwise gold and red jams with a jug and great stance near the top. Singles .3-.75. Doubles 1-2. Medium/large nuts. Jul 16, 2017

[Hide Comment] Here is a route overview video with the 5.8 start variation

youtu.be/RGvKsxr7B7w Jun 30, 2018

[Hide Comment] Great route. I thought it was just slightly harder than Penny Lane at Squamish. I placed a .5 and .4 camalot to protect the layback start. Be sure to stand up on the ledge and stem a little bit so you can place a piece as far above your head as you can, otherwise if you blow the layback you will for sure deck. I thought the hardest part was the short little step over at the top of the 5.8 start variation just before you climb up to the base of the hand crack. But it was all mental (I ran it out a little bit to this point). Just get a foot over to a cut out at the base of the corner and grab the solid crimps. The hand crack is all #1 and #2 camalots with a spot that a .75 camalot will fit. SO DAMN FUN Jul 8, 2018

[Hide Comment] Fun, splitter, and memorable. The "not terribly well protected" comment in the description is unwarranted. The crux layback sews up with finger sized cams (#.3-.5 camalots). A variety of size options protect the easier middle section. A #3 camalot can be placed at the base of the upper handcrack. 2 #1 camalots should suffice for the first half of the handcrack, and 1 or 2 #2 camalots for the second half. Might feel stiffer for folks with bigger hands. Sep 2, 2019

[Hide Comment] super fun and memorable climb. absolutely stellar handcrack above the ledge, and the start is difficult but rewarding. plenty of protection throughout, although the start requires careful attention. Hand crack is all #1-#2 BD Camalots, and used a Z4 Offset .3/.4 to protect the top of the finger crack crux start. Aug 16, 2022

[Hide Comment] Definitely good to be careful on the start but it takes great gear that will keep you off the ground through the hard section. There was a section that I felt was a bit runout near the ledge ~halfway up the route but it could be protected differently to make it less runout and the section is quite easy compared to the moves at the start. Aug 10, 2024