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Routes in Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side

Battle of the Bulge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Chatsworth Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Howard's Fifty Footer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mantle Fiend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mickey Mantle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pink Royd T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sensuous Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tango S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Toxic Waltz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ultimatum T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Erick Erickson and John Long
Page Views: 435 total, 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A flake (5.8) near the bottom is a bit loose, but the rock on the rest of this face climb is excellent. The climbing up the initial flake is poorly protected. The crux move is right by a bolt. Higher up is a very runout 5.9 move, where a fall would be serious. The ledge at the top has a bolted anchor at its left end, allowing a 90 foot rappel back to the ground. This climb is in the sun all day.

Protection

2 bolts, a fixed pin, and gear to 3" for the belay

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
Book topo is off on this one. The variation coming in from the left would clip one bolt then go directly to the crux bolt, not to the proper 1st bolt as shown. There was a third bolt at the 5.9 run out but it looks like the hanger broke off, might be able to cinch it with a nut. A better finish would be going left into Ultimatum. Nov 11, 2017
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
 
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
 
VERY CLASSIC ROUTE. One of the best at Suicide. Can't believe the rating of 2 stars. It has one of the best finishes at the rock. May 2, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10d
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10d
Here again if the leader is climbing at this grade the so called unprotected moves above crux should be no problem.Bolts were placed on the lead where there was a stance to drill in good alpine style. Feb 17, 2008