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Routes in Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side

Battle of the Bulge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Chatsworth Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Howard's Fifty Footer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mantle Fiend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mickey Mantle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pink Royd T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sensuous Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tango S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Toxic Waltz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ultimatum T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: John Long and Gib Lewis, April 1972
Page Views: 145 total, 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This face route has a serious runout above the first bolt. To descend, rappel 90 feet from an anchor at the left end of the ledge. It is in the sun all day.

Protection

3 bolts, one or two longs slings, and some gear for the belay

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
Runout after the 1st bolt is definitely R, no doubt. I took the variation left, then back right to stand on a huge knob to clip the 3rd bolt (3/8 but homemade hanger). Then get to the next obvious knob up and right, probably easier not to sling it, (no feet) and just mantle up using the arete to finish.

My partner did the direct by moving slightly right to a good black knob, didn't seem quite 10d.

BTW, this line starts at the apex of the ledge right of Micky Mantle and Howards 50 Footer.

This has two bolts at the top now but no chains, rap from MM. Dec 10, 2016
A fall doing the .10d straight up variation past the second bolt has the potential to be a real ankle buster, so be real solid if you think of doing the route this way. Mar 24, 2015
This was one of the first new routes I ever did and all the way up Gib and I were wondering if I was doing things correctly. There's a giant knob on top I thought might break and I took forever cranking over on it. Exciting times. Jul 20, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b R
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b R
I don't think BOTB is R. However, this route, Mickey Mantle and Howard's Fifty Footer - yes. Jul 14, 2008
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
  5.10d R
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
  5.10d R
Did the straight up variation at the second bolt, which got me stuck for awhile in a wide stem on sloped holds. Very cool finishing move to the gigantic knob. This climb would fit my definition of an R rating though, and I don't think the runout on BOTB is all that bad, considering how easy it is. May 19, 2008
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
Agree with Bruce May 2, 2008
Bruce Diffenbaugh
Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10b
Bruce Diffenbaugh   Cheyenne,Wyoming
  5.10b
This route is one of my favorite climbs on this wall. Makes you think. Very cool. I disagree with the R rating. No ground fall the pro is where it needs to be. In fact there is only one R rated route on this wall. and it is B.O.T.B. Mar 27, 2008
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b/c R
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b/c R
Fun continuous, with a knob or two to sling for pro. There are a couple of great rest stances on this to contemplate the up coming moves. This was one of my early leads, and being weened at J-Tree, I thought the runout nature of this route was par for the course. It was only after revisiting this several years later was I a bit proud of this ascent during my adolescent days of climbing. Great climb. Jan 11, 2007