Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Wilson and Phil Warrender, June 1972
Page Views: 813 total · 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

The Fiend is a quality thin face route. When the rock exfoliated, it left a few long, 1/2 inch wide edges that you can use for traverses. A 20 foot runout up to the first bolt is quite scary - the runouts above are milder. Rappel 90 feet from a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the top. This climb is in the sun all day.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.9 R
C Miller   CA  
  5.9 R
A direct start (5.10 left variation or 5.11 right variation) has been done on toprope and climbs straight up to join the route at the 3rd bolt. Sep 25, 2007
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
 
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
 
5 bolts my ass! I only counted 3. Truly one of the scariest runouts I've encountered. The worst part is that I couldn't SEE the second bolt from the first because it is around a corner. It's there but... Aug 23, 2013
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
I really like this route. I'm surprised it only has two stars. I think it's equal in quality to most of the other routes on the wall. I know some fret about the move to the first bolt, but it's pretty standard Suicide-type climbing. Oct 1, 2014
Tradiban  
 
Way too much faith is needed in your rubber to gain the first bolt.

I think you were off-route Jim. After clipping the second bolt go straight right for 10ft to gain the 3rd. May 11, 2015