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Routes in Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side

Battle of the Bulge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Chatsworth Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Howard's Fifty Footer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mantle Fiend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mickey Mantle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pink Royd T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sensuous Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tango S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Toxic Waltz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ultimatum T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Jim Wilson and Phil Warrender, June 1972
Page Views: 750 total, 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The Fiend is a quality thin face route. When the rock exfoliated, it left a few long, 1/2 inch wide edges that you can use for traverses. A 20 foot runout up to the first bolt is quite scary - the runouts above are milder. Rappel 90 feet from a two bolt anchor on a ledge at the top. This climb is in the sun all day.

Protection

5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Tradiban  
 
Way too much faith is needed in your rubber to gain the first bolt.

I think you were off-route Jim. After clipping the second bolt go straight right for 10ft to gain the 3rd. May 11, 2015
Fat Dad
Los Angeles, CA
 
Fat Dad   Los Angeles, CA
 
I really like this route. I'm surprised it only has two stars. I think it's equal in quality to most of the other routes on the wall. I know some fret about the move to the first bolt, but it's pretty standard Suicide-type climbing. Oct 1, 2014
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
 
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
 
5 bolts my ass! I only counted 3. Truly one of the scariest runouts I've encountered. The worst part is that I couldn't SEE the second bolt from the first because it is around a corner. It's there but... Aug 23, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.9 R
C Miller   CA  
  5.9 R
A direct start (5.10 left variation or 5.11 right variation) has been done on toprope and climbs straight up to join the route at the 3rd bolt. Sep 25, 2007