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Routes in Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side

Battle of the Bulge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Chatsworth Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fiend, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Howard's Fifty Footer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mantle Fiend T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mickey Mantle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Pink Royd T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Sensuous Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tango S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Toxic Waltz T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ultimatum T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: Matt Cox, Randy Vogel & Steve Emerson, 1976
Page Views: 166 total, 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a terrific thin face climb, with three crux sections. The moves are quite varied. The start (15 or 20 feet up to the first bolt) is shared with The Fiend, and has the only scary runout of the route. This climb is in the sun all day.

Protection

8 bolts to a double bolt anchor - 150' rappel to the ground

Photos

Tradiban  
 
The start with The Feind is a little run but you can start in the dihedral to the left too with a piece of gear or two. Crux is definitely between bolt two and three, I thought clipping bolt three was tough. Damn fun climb. Oct 9, 2017
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
I agree with Chris that the crux is at the top bulge. Also, despite the promising looking holds to the left of the third bolt, make sure you go right over the first bulge. This is a fairly sustained route. May 19, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.11a PG13
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.11a PG13
Done this route a few times, first time in January when it was nice and cold and sticky, which I recommend, for me the hardest move is close to the top getting past the overlap on the left. Climbed right past the middle bolt once...oops.

My friend Steve Rockwell said he chopped this route once - I'd be interested in its history. Feb 24, 2006