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Blown Out

5.10d, Trad, 130 ft,  Avg: 2.1 from 8 votes
FA: Greg Bender and Phil Warrender, June 1972
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (h) Smooth Sole… > Smooth Sole Wall - Left Side

Description

This is a good, one pitch face route. It is well protected except for a runout on moderate ground below the first bolt. It's in the sun all day.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] Could use a bolt after the first bolt too! Apr 6, 2009
[Hide Comment] Dave, your comment is confusing to me. Disagree with the runout, but like the idea of added protection? Help me out! Apr 6, 2009
[Hide Comment] Getting to the first bolt provides the first bit of excitement, moreso if you're under maybe 5'7" or so. The moves aren't that hard, they just have big consequences. The second bolt isn't far after the first, but getting to the third puts you back into ground-fall territory. The line I took to get there wasn't hard, but still had some slightly insecure smeary moves right before getting to the bolt. It might be better to follow the ramp up to a spot right below the bolt, then climb up to it. The bulge at the third bolt is an in-your-face, "where'd all the holds go" kind of crux. I won't spoil the beta, but I will say that after falling a couple of times onto that bolt, the sequence that got me through the crux without too much difficulty was not via the more obvious line of chalked holds. Past the crux moves, smear your way up to and clip the 4th bolt. Once again think to yourself "ok, now the holds are REALLY gone!" Smear your way up the "feets do't fail me now" slab to the finish. Oct 24, 2011
[Hide Comment] The first bolt might be tough to see, start on the left and traverse right on a ledge, then straight up to the first bolt. Trend a bit left on a ledge above that to the second bolt. Crimpy crux at bolt three to a tricky smear and sloper crux at bolt 4. Mar 8, 2018