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Routes in Smooth Sole Wall - Left Side

Blown Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Down and Out T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Drowned Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Last Dance T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Over and Out T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Steppin' Out T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Greg Bender and Phil Warrender, June 1972
Page Views: 445 total, 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a good, one pitch face route. It is well protected except for a runout on moderate ground below the first bolt. It's in the sun all day.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor

Photos

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Getting to the first bolt provides the first bit of excitement, moreso if you're under maybe 5'7" or so. The moves aren't that hard, they just have big consequences. The second bolt isn't far after the first, but getting to the third puts you back into ground-fall territory. The line I took to get there wasn't hard, but still had some slightly insecure smeary moves right before getting to the bolt. It might be better to follow the ramp up to a spot right below the bolt, then climb up to it. The bulge at the third bolt is an in-your-face, "where'd all the holds go" kind of crux. I won't spoil the beta, but I will say that after falling a couple of times onto that bolt, the sequence that got me through the crux without too much difficulty was not via the more obvious line of chalked holds. Past the crux moves, smear your way up to and clip the 4th bolt. Once again think to yourself "ok, now the holds are REALLY gone!" Smear your way up the "feets do't fail me now" slab to the finish. Oct 24, 2011
Dave, your comment is confusing to me. Disagree with the runout, but like the idea of added protection? Help me out! Apr 6, 2009
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.10d
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.10d
Could use a bolt after the first bolt too! Apr 6, 2009