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Bluebeard

5.10c R, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: Bob Gaines et al., June 1989
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (l) Buttress of… > Buttress of Cracks -…

Description

This is a short, exciting face climb. It is on a small formation just below The Pirate. Scramble down and traverse in from the left. Unprotected crux moves lead up to the first bolt. A good spot (tough to arrange on the exposed starting ledge) would help you if you fell here. The moves above are fun and well-protected. The climb finishes along the trail by the base of The Pirate.

Protection

Gear for the belay at the bottom and at the top. I don't remember whether I was able to place any gear on the actual climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Fun face climbing on this; the crux is a boulder problem right at the start, which seems to negate the "R" rating. Jan 28, 2006
Tradiban
 
[Hide Comment] Start is unprotected but I got in some cams for the belayor in the downward facing flake. Used a C4 #2 and a bit nut for the anchor. There's a route that branches left after the first bolt noted an "unfinished" in the G/V book, it's now finished but the crux bolt is still an original button head. Looks like cool crimpy moves to a jug on the lip. Sent yet? Feb 18, 2018