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Zion
5.10a/b,
Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 3.7 from 389
votes
FA: unknown
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (g) Morning Glory Wall
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details:
smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This is THE multipitch line at Smith!!!
Pitch 1: The first pitch has many variations from 5.7 to 5.11. These lines share the first pitch anchor: Zebra Direct(5.11a),
Zebra Seam (5.11d), and
Gumby (5.10b)
Take any of these lines to the first anchor.
Pitch 2: (10.b) Move straight up into the right-facing dihedral. This pitch is traditionally thought of as the crux of the climb for both its technical moves off the belay and endurance required on this long pitch. Belay at a ledge on the left at a bolted anchor.
Pitch 3: (5.9) Continue up the corner for a few feet and make an exposed traverse out onto the face to the right.(pro may be placed in a few pods here but watch rope drag on this pitch) Keep moving up and right until you reach a roof. Be careful on this pitch so as not to rain rocks down on the popular areas below.
Pitch 4: (5.9) Climb this fantasticly steep and juggy flake to the summit. A truly spectacular pitch with fun moves and superb position.
This climb will get you on top of the main formation at smith. Descend one of the gullies to the right (east) or take a more scenic descent to the NW around monkey face.
Protection
Wires, cams to 3.5 inches, long slings
[Hide Photo] Anna-Meika follows the magnificent 2nd pitch dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the final few pitches of Zion after topping out.
[Hide Photo] Edward and me stoked on the final pitch
[Hide Photo] Climbing the last pitch of Zion - can't get enough of this route. I try to climb it at least once per season. Skyler Graves photo
[Hide Photo] Eli doing a human flag on P4…
[Hide Photo] Shannon Suarez following pitch 3 of Zion. June 2022
Bend, OR
Highly recommend. Why this line stands empty as the sport routes below are swarming with people is beyond me.....
Easy descent down the Cocaine Gully (first gully on climbers right) Oct 22, 2006
Portland, OR
Because you either climbed on a weekday or got lucky :)
Spring/fall weekends see a crowd on this one. Looks like you sampled some of Smith's best (think my wife and I ran into you guys in the L. Gorge). Oct 27, 2006
bum fuck, Oregon
Sacramento, CA
all over
Traveling
Grand Junction
We did Lion Zion (5.10c/d) as our first pitch - and I must say my toes are mad at me from all the continuous edging I had to do. It outright hurts! The traverse over to the top of the pillar is super easy.
Pitch 3 is absolutely spectacular G-rated fun exposed climbing. I find it to be as easy as the traverse. Call them both 5.8, or both 5.9. It's somewhere in that neighborhood.
It's awesome that all 3 pitches offer so many different experiences! My favorite multipitch route at Smith Rock! Oct 26, 2012
Bend, OR
Olympia, WA
Portland, Oregon
Spokane, WA
Portland, OR
Portland OR
First pitch is a 5.7 to 5.11a sport (or a 5.11d trad) to a hanging belay. This starting pitch ties up very popular routes so start early and be fast.
Second pitch has two parts; the first is a very difficult 5.10a/b, made difficult because the rounded right face is coated with essence of rubber, sweat and chalk. There is a fix piece just before the crux. If the crux is too difficult, drop down from the fix pro (about the distance you will fall if you fail to make the 5.10a), traverse a short distance right to Lion Zion just above a bolt (not easy/possible to clip), climb up and then traverse left back into the seam just above the crux to another fix piece. Except for the fix pro this variation is unprotected, but short and only 5.8. The second part is a long crack/dihedral 5.8 to a ledge with anchor to the left.
The third pitch follow the seam/corner up for about 30 to 40 feet (easy and protectable). Then do an unprotected 5.8 traverse to the right until a easy wide crack is reach, follow the crack up until a semi-hanging belay. Note the easy wide crack has loose rock in it, so be careful not to dislodge any and drop them on the people below.
Fantastic fourth pitch begins with a horizontal hand crack to the left. This short traverse is slippery with bird shit, sweat and chalk. Then an outstanding crack leads up to a bench, where around to the left is a short unprotected 5.6 leading to the anchors. Walk off. Jun 16, 2016
Bend, OR
Sacramento, CA
First time I climbed it, we started with Gumby which I did not enjoy. Next time we made the longer traverse by starting at Five Gallon or The Outsiders (5.7) which was worlds more enjoyable.
The crux comes quick off the belay on P2 and you just get to enjoy the long splitter that follows up to the ledge.
I highly recommend running it out or MEGA extending your pieces on P3. The unprotected traverse zig zags you back almost above the original corner, but placing protection immediately after the traverse will leave you with unbearable rope drag. If you're seriously worried about protecting yourself, there is an anchor a couple moves further right of the traverse which you could make into a new pitch split.
I found the feet on P4 to be lackluster to begin with but it eventually widens out for the better. There were options for a C4 #4, but it's not needed; might as well shave off some weight. Jul 28, 2017
Baltimore, MD
Bend, OR
Riverside, Ca
There are also bolted anchors on every pitch
I would also give this PG13 d/t the traverse on pitch 3. I might have travesed a little low because I followed the chalk line, I didn't see and pods to place gear in. If I fell during that traverse, I def would've smacked right into the corner Sep 23, 2019
Bend
Linked P1-2 from The Outsiders, which even with long runners sucked. The roof was mellow, but the drag made the dihedral above really difficult. If you’re going to link definitely do Gumby.
5.8R traverse was mellow, but the climbing to the anchor was crumbly. Last pitch was fun. Has a fixed .1 X4 with broken cables. Seems solid to clip.
Quick descent down cocaine gully. Brought 2x .3-2 and a single #3. Lots of bigger DMM offset nuts. Dec 10, 2019
Oakdale, CA
Bellingham, WA
Tacoma, WA
Bend, OR