Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Fat Crack (AKA Outer Column Jam)

5.8, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 51 votes
FA: Tom Bauman?
Oregon > Willamette Valley > Skinner Butte (aka Th…

Description

This is the most popular climb at the columns. It is the largest crack on the right side of the wall. Scramble up a pedestal to access the crack which gradually widens to fist size at the top.

Protection

Nuts, cams to 3 inches

Belay or rap from chains at top or walk off (5.1)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Spiderman showed up for Halloweekend to do a little free soloing!
[Hide Photo] Spiderman showed up for Halloweekend to do a little free soloing!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] Actually, the crack never gets wider than 3 inches and the walk-off, while very exposed, isn't harder than 2nd-3rd class. Feb 2, 2008
EugeneGuy
  5.8
[Hide Comment] While I know lots of people who would agree that this is one of their favs at The Columns, for me, it just hurts my feet way to bad (wah). I prefer anything on the Main Buttress, and the chimney. Although, Fat Crack definately deserves it's 3 or 4 star rating. Sep 14, 2008
Tyler Gates
Corvallis, Oregon
  5.9
[Hide Comment] nice hand crack that shoots striaght up. book rates it as a 5.9 if you only use the crack. 5.8 if you venture outside the crack Apr 12, 2009
EugeneGuy
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Climbed this again a few weeks ago, and found a new way to jam and stack the toes which was much better.

A couple points of note: This is actually the Outer Collumn Jam, but most refer to it as 'Fat Crack.'

As mentioned above, gear to 3 inches is all that's needed - a couple .75, or 1, then a gold, then blue Camalot gets you to the top. Plug in whatever else you feel comfortable with... Chains at top, rap down is easiest. Sep 27, 2013
Petsfed 00
Snohomish, WA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I disagree with Max's "isn't harder than 2nd-3rd class" comment. While most of the routes on the Main Column have a 2nd-3rd class walkoff, getting to the top of Outer Column definitely has a 4th-low 5th move that will catch you by surprise if you aren't expecting it. Only really an issue if you're setting up a top rope, but that's what most people do at the Columns, so its a legitimate issue.

Incidentally, this and routes to the right get climbed a lot less than other lines at the Columns, and I haven't figured out why. Maybe its that they are all almost pure jamming lines? Sep 28, 2013
George W
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Sustained 5.7 climbing for an average sized man. Of course, it's more difficult if you're small and hands/feet are off. No obvious crux, it'll be over before you know it. A 4th class move to the larger columns leads you off. It's an exposed step on a slick column usually covered in dirt. It's one 4th class step due to risk, no real place for hands except to palm something, don't trust the bushes... tread carefully.

Agreed with others on cam sizes - protect the mantle on top with a 3/3.5" piece. My first trad lead ever! I'll never forget it! Sep 14, 2015
Nicolas Scharn
Eugene, OR
[Hide Comment] Rules on hands/feet exiting the crack? Mar 31, 2022
Ben Chaloupka
Eugene, OR
  5.8
[Hide Comment] In response to Nicolas: Consistent with Tyler's comment, multiple guidebooks call this 5.9 if both hands and feet stay in the crack and 5.8 if you use the face holds. However, I've found staying in the crack feels more like 5.8, but who really cares about the grade? The point is, keep the hands and feet in the crack if you want a bit more of a challenge or are working on your crack technique, or go outside the crack if you just want to get up the thing. Either way, have fun! It's one of Skinner Butte's finest lines. Apr 3, 2022