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5.10b, Sport, 40 ft,
Avg: 2.4 from 154 votes
FA: Alan Watts & Brooke Sandahl 3/87
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (g) Morning Glory Wall
What's this? Another fun moderate face climb on the Morning Glory wall? Say it ain't so!
This route starts about 30 feet to the left of the dihedral near Zebra Direct and
Light on the Path
. Good face climbing on the bottom leads to juggy huecos at the top.
4 bolts and a bolted anchor
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Climbed a route that matches the description for "Gumby". Really nice crimps, sidepulls and a swath of great heuco jugs to another crimp ladder. Only climbed to the first set of anchors which I ass…
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There is an excellent variation to this climb that is the best single pitch climb I have done on the Morning Glory wall (the variation may have a name and should be listed as a different route?). After reaching the giant huecos, find a good stance and rest your arms. Instead of following the huecos up and right to end at the P1 Zebra-Zion anchors (5.easy), continue straight up on pocketed and crimpy face climbing to a set of bolted anchors. This is pumpy and delicate climbing that is very similar in character to the first part of Gumby. Done this way I would call the route 10b/c.
Jan 31, 2006
Perhaps the route has had some equipment changes in the two years since the description was posted? There were more like 7 bolts on this line, with the anchors well near 75 feet above the ground (not 40). The top three bolts linked thin, crimpy, slabby, beautifully delicate climbing with the juggy-monkey heuco-pulling below. Fun!!
Oct 27, 2008
The extension refered to in the comments above is called Morning Sky and is the natural line.
Gumby bails right on huge jugs to the Zebra Direct anchor to avoid a second crimpy crux higher on the slab.
Jun 30, 2009
It's a good idea to avoid this route when another party is climbing Zion. I was nearly killed by rockfall belaying my partner as he linked Gumby and P2 of Zion.
Feb 4, 2016
Seems to me the bottom of the climb gets a lot of traffic and has worn down a bit, it's harder than 5.10b now.
Apr 28, 2016
This is much harder than a 10b since it’s so greasy. Really hard start. Stick clipped first bolt. Highly recommend that. Right before the 3rd bolt there’s a rail that feels amazing after all the crappy greasy holds. Then awesome ledge and up through large huecos the rest of the way. Due to being so grimey, I only recommend climbing this to TR the incredibly fun 11d Zebra Seam or to get up the Zion multi-pitch route. In reality, it will continue to be a popular route on this popular wall.
Sep 17, 2018