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Sedona's Scenic Cruise

5.9, Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.6 from 229 votes
FA: John Burcham and James Q Martin, 2001
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Gibraltar Rock… > Gibraltar Rock

Description

Sedona Scenic Cruise is a pretty cool moderate outing that has been gaining popularity over the last few years. The crux is often figuring out where the route is located. If you look east from highway 179 between Bell Rock and the Church Spires, there is a jagged high ridge of rock running roughly North-South. SSC goes up the leftmost formation on this ridge. At first glance, the rock looks way too shattered to be a good place for a climbing route, but surprisingly, it's pretty good.

P1) 120' Climb up corner to a big flake sticking out to the left. The crux of the pitch is skirting this flake out to the left. (tiny cam or Lowe Ball useful here). Above the flake, continue to a two-bolt anchor (no chains). From here, you can look out to the right (climber's right) and see RAPPEL ANCHOR for the last rappel.

P2) 160' Scramble around to the left and up onto the ledge with large tree. Set pro for anchor. Second pitch starts behind the tree, up face past several bolts and a two bolt anchor at the top, continue climbing, veer right across a slab and one bolt, then up a short corner to a bolted belay on a ledge.

P3) ~175' all the way to the blocky ledges. Traverse straight left, clip bolt, continue left and up (bolt), then into a corner system. Climb this to a nice looking vertical crack, then step up and jam your way up the steep hands to big hands crack (pretty good face holds as well). A short chimney bit will put you left of a sloping ledge with the bolted anchor w/chains (note this as a RAPPEL ANCHOR for the way back down). You can continue up to the left up a short face with a single bolt and combine this pitch with the next one. There are two bolts with no chains at the end of this.

P4) 100' Face climb up and right along the right side of buttress past 10 bolts to belay on ledge. Very nice pitch. You can see a long chain on the ledge just north from here that is the RAPPEL ANCHOR on the way down.

P5) 100' Climb around corner to the right across "spicy" traverse to gain chimney with chockstone. Climb up and over chockstone and continue up crack to belay on ledge. There is a small canister with a summit register here and RAPPEL ANCHOR.

You can scramble (4th cl) to the top from here. Highly recommend belaying this portion!

Descent:

R1) Rappel from the last anchor back down to the top of the fourth pitch (85'). If you have a 60m rope, it's probably easier to leave your second rope here rather than hauling it to the top.

R2) Airy rappel (TWO ROPES!) from the long chains back down to the sloping ledge with chains noted in P3 description above. Watch the rope pull on this as the blocky ledge above tends to eat the ropes.

R3) Rappel (TWO ROPES) off the sloping ledge down to a two bolt anchor with slings and a rap ring at the top of the vertical section of the second pitch. You're headed for a bolted anchor with chains down a slot just below the buttress where the second pitch starts.

R4) Rappel (TWO ROPES) back down to the ground, just South and around the corner from the first pitch.

Protection

Standard desert rack, doubles up to #3 Camalot plus one #4 Camalot, two ropes, helmet.

Location

From Hwy 89A in Sedona, drive 3.6 miles south on Hwy 179 and turn left into a parking for the Bell Rock trail. From the east side of the parking area follow the Bell Rock trail SE for 0.3 miles. At the intersection turn left and take the Little Horse trail for 0.6 miles to the intersection with the Llama trail. Turn right on the Llama trail and at around 0.5 miles you will cross a wash that is typically marked with a cairn. GPS coordinates for the wash:  34.8207780, -111.7613940

Turn left and follow this wash uphill towards the start of the route. Generally stay in the wash and look for additional cairns which will help navigate you around obstacles when needed. GPS Coordinates for the start of the route: 34.8198940, -111.7542570 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dana Ikeda, pitch 3 of SSC
[Hide Photo] Dana Ikeda, pitch 3 of SSC
Leading up the third pitch.
[Hide Photo] Leading up the third pitch.
Patrick Brown leading pitch 3 of SSC
[Hide Photo] Patrick Brown leading pitch 3 of SSC
SSC as seen from Courthouse Butte
[Hide Photo] SSC as seen from Courthouse Butte
The obligatory photo opp.
[Hide Photo] The obligatory photo opp.
Mark's shadow cast while climbing the 5th pitch.
[Hide Photo] Mark's shadow cast while climbing the 5th pitch.
View from the top of the first pitch
[Hide Photo] View from the top of the first pitch
Alex P and I on the third pitch of SSC.<br>
Bolt locations are approximate
[Hide Photo] Alex P and I on the third pitch of SSC. Bolt locations are approximate
NEW APPROACH INFO NOV 2016<br>
The approach for this climb should follow the green (0.3mi), blue(1.1mi) and yellow indicated trails.  The red route was the previous approach and is only 0.1 miles shorter than the blue trail on the way to the upper wash. Both have the same elevation gain but the red route moves through un-established terrain. Please use the existing trails to reach the upper wash so we can minimize impact.
[Hide Photo] NEW APPROACH INFO NOV 2016 The approach for this climb should follow the green (0.3mi), blue(1.1mi) and yellow indicated trails. The red route was the previous approach and is only 0.1 miles shor…
At the crux of the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] At the crux of the first pitch.
Loving the view from pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Loving the view from pitch 3
Route Overlay Sedona's Scenic Cruise
[Hide Photo] Route Overlay Sedona's Scenic Cruise

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Just an update for y'all I'd have to say this is a John Burhcam route for sure. I'm also pretty sure I've got an old topo floating around calling this 5.8 Feb 1, 2006
[Hide Comment] Climb is 5 pitches long, we wimped out on the 5th pitch because it was getting late but up until that point the crux was the wide crack on the 1st pitch. Pitches 2 and 4 are 5.7-5.8 sport. Mar 18, 2006
Joe Keyser
Scottsdale, AZ
[Hide Comment] Great job with this route. Not as many pitches with full-on crack climbing as some of the other routes in Sedona I've been on so far. But, the great position, and good varied climbing make it one of my favorites in Sedona so far. Aug 28, 2006
[Hide Comment] The working name of the route was Four Flying Apaches but John Burcham and James Martin (First Ascensionists) renamed the route to fit it's classic character to Sedona's Scenic Cruise. Dec 14, 2006
Patrick Mc
Sedona, Arizona
[Hide Comment] We parked at the "long pullout with a barricade at it's north end". The GPS coordinates using UTM format for this parking area are:
12 S 0430027
3852461

Coordinates for the start of the route are:
12 S 0431085
3853130

NOTE: Make sure your GPS is set on the Datum of NAD27 or your GPS will be off.

Don't forget your head lamp. Jan 5, 2007
Kole DeCou
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] I'd like to add that I saw this route in a newly published guidebook, and the apprach described and pictured therein is definately wrong. The approach described here is the correct one. Jan 10, 2007
Laurel Arndt
Phoenix, AZ
[Hide Comment] Feel compelled to give better parking/trail info. The parking lot they talk about is a triangular shaped parking lot and it is the third parking lot after the official very large "Bell Rock" parking lot. When you get on the trail (through the gate), you will walk the trail for a while and than follow the old wooden power lines for 1/4 mile, when you hit the man made stone bridge that crosses the wash, drop of to the right and follow the wash. It is well cairned and you can't miss it.
Route wise; these directions are straight on, however, if you should happen to get a photo copied sheet or got to RC.com, be aware that you can run pitch 2 and 3 together, just use a xtra long sling on the last bolt of the "second pitch" before you traverse out across to the singular bolt and up the short dihedral. Also try to link up the fourth pitch to the short fifth pitch 40 ft chimney. As you take off on the "fifth" short 40 ft pitch, put an extra long sling on the bolt to the left of the anchor, to ensure a nice easy traveling rope. Mar 26, 2007
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
[Hide Comment] If Kole is talking about the approach described in the Weekend Rock guidebook, then I can verify it definitely works to get you there and is not wrong, only different. Most of it involves hiking on the well maintained Llama trail. Oct 10, 2007
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
[Hide Comment] Did this route last weekend. I thought it was ok, but did find some of it to be contrived. Especially pitch 2 where the arete was bolted 5 feet away from the obvious chimney and thus the natural line.
Also on the second to last pitch...going up and left to the ledge instead of putting a belay on the obvious ledge at the base of the crack system that makes up the final pitch..thus forcing you to do the "spicy traverse". Other than that the climbing was pretty fun.

Also I went up via the approach described here...then descended via the Llama trail. They both have their good and bad...I'd call them about equal. Oct 12, 2007
BCramer
Prescott
  5.9
[Hide Comment] We climbed this route Fri. 11/16 and found a fenced in road construction materials yard temporarily occupying the parking lot described above. Who knows how long it will remain. We parked across the street. Greg n' Laurel's approach worked great for us. While climbing pitch 2 do not belay at the 1st set of anchors encountered (we goofed here, this anchor is only for the rappel), instead continue up right passed one more bolt to another set of bolts at the start of the 3rd pitch as per Greg’s description. Highly recommend climbing to the summit, but stay roped and make sure you mark where you climbed out to make it easy to find on the return. Great climbing, raps and views! Nov 19, 2007
Kevin Hadfield
New Castle, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Right above the belay for pitch 5 (spicy traverse) there is a bolt that kind on protects the traverse. Do NOT get confused... this is not useful and should be ignored. DO NOT clip the bolt and climb past it... The rock gets very scary and there are no bolts above this rogue unnatural protection.

IGNORE THE BOLT ABOVE THE BELAY ON PITCH 5! Jan 27, 2008
rpc
Portland, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Did the route 2 days ago with nothing but Greg's directions from here. Great info! Great route! Much thanks. The specified parking is still being used as a construction materials storage. Feb 20, 2008
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
[Hide Comment] After approaching and descending on different sides of the mountain two separate times now, I realize that the southwest side is the correct aspect to go up and down. It is the only portion of the mountain that has stable ground and where you will be less likely to get taken down by massive, shifting boulder fragments on unstable, eroding slopes. There is also a faint trail up this side (if you can find it). Aim for a somewhat indistinct ridge that rises up and conjoins with the SW side of the mountain. One section of the ridge is light in color and drops away on both sides of the trail suddenly for a short time near the middle of the trek up. At the top, a trail traverses around to the NW side and ends under the route. Going this way will prevent further considerable erosion damage by climbers as well. Apr 20, 2008
[Hide Comment] Hi All!

When John and I established the Sedona Scenic Cruise we did it originally all trad and that line can still be repeated if one chooses. We took a lot of time to consider the best possible way with one goal in in mind a fun and safe moderate route that we all can enjoy... the 5.7 choss chimney can be climbed to right of the bolts on the 2nd pitch. It is not that fun I climbed it maybe 5 or 6 times establishing the route along with some other crumbly cracks up high.

We did not add the bolt above the last pitch, this was done by someone else, do not go this way it is not correct and could result in injury!

Regarding the approach please, please do not follow the mis-informed guide book and stick to the original description above. John and I spent a lot of time on the trial with another goal in mind, minimum impact to the environment and ONE path that has the least erosion, please follow that well worn path to the base and element's further damage and social trails.

Cheers! Jul 2, 2008
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Be aware that the recently constructed road has eliminated all of the pullouts. We ended up parking at the lot just north of Bell rock, but there is a metal fence blocking the shortcut to the bell rock pathway, forcing you to go almost to bell rock before being able to head in the right direction. even with all the shenanigans, it still only takes ~1hr to reach the base of the climb. Nov 24, 2008
Brian Boyd
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] There is a discussion thread available with updated approach beta:

mountainproject.com/v/arizo… Nov 17, 2009
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Just did this route and I feel like I should add to the rappel beta. our 60m rope didn't reach from the slopey ledge near the top of p3 to the anchors in the slot near the top of p1. it was close; we made it to the ledge with a few feet left. it could be that our ropes were short because they're old, but just a warning, you may not make it to the anchors in the slot.

Overall the route was pretty fun. I felt like it kept getting better and better. Oct 30, 2010
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Aug. 1 ~3 hr. ascent w/ no heat or sun affects -- incredible, and incredible climbing and views! In regard to the approach, we followed the updated directions to approach the climb and they were spot on and easy to follow. For the return, all the visible trails down the spur southern ridge lured me to descend via the route that's described in the guidebook (w/ photo) and I completely agree with the above comment by James that the updated route should be used to minimize the impact by multiple trails through the brush. It's entirely on a trail or in a wash and the time taken is about the same.

Tyler's comment is true as well, though it's an easy scramble to the final rap anchors (for the non-faint of heart foolish ones) and then an easy belay over (for the sensible ones). Aug 2, 2011
[Hide Comment] Good stuff. The first pitch is stiff. My partner and I got out ropes stuck (like, really friggin stuck) after the first and second rappel. Has anyone else had the same problem on this route? Feb 11, 2012
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Classic desert climbing in a spectacular setting. Getting the views of the Peaks after pitch three is awesome. Pitches 1 and 4 are certainly the money pitches, though interesting sections are spread throughout the route. A good blend of new school flavor, with old school spice. I could certainly see how a shorter framed climber might find it challenging for the 5.8 grade, but for the grade in Sedona, the climbing is excellent.

Still quite a bit of loose rock on the rappels. Be careful tugging on stuck ropes!! Feb 18, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] A delight to get on this again, but a few notes to pass on. We said hi to a sweet rattlesnake on the ledge behind the belay anchors for P1. Quite startling, but considering all the rodents up there it's not that surprising. Be careful. Also, the loose rock note of JJ's is right on. Finally, I explored the trail options further and want to emphasize NOT using the ridge crest to scree slope approach that comes in from the southwest (that is, from the first parking area north of Bell Rock and the approach photo in Weekend Rock). The trails are multiplying, disrupting the black lichen that's holding the soil in place and the erosion is worsening. Instead, use second parking lot north of Bell Rock and take the main trail south to the channel, to the gully to the slick rock approach described in detail above. Bring clippers to trim the branches that have grown in! Jun 4, 2012
j mo
n az
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I know it's lame to call this 9+ AND PG-13 but my reasoning is: harder than rubo's, and couple spots where falling would hurt and be ill-advised. That said.... It's safely bolted and a beautiful, classic climb. Crux's on p1 and p4 are tough! P3 is The Money Pitch..... Oct 28, 2012
Danger Charles
Flagstaff, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Brought a new notebook to the summit can as the old one is just about completely full. The old one is still there for everyone's viewing pleasure. Enjoy!


New summit log for the Sedona Scenic Cruise
Nov 17, 2012
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] A few thoughts after doing this route for the 4th time this weekend:
  • #4 Camelot is totally optional, although two #3s is sure nice.
  • the final 50yds of the trail seems like it's gotten much worse over the past year or so.. Anybody else notice this?
  • for the full value experience, instead of rapping you can top the climb out all the way to committee tank/schnebly hill road -- quite an adventure! It took us 45 min for the approach, 2.5 hours for the climb, and 7 more hours to get to schnebly hill...
Apr 23, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Agree with Tyler on all points, but found the #4 quite nice to have on the trad pitches (even if it really wasn't that necessary). Would've been fun and funny to run into you en route as it has been a while. Just read his post about going all the way out from the top, which was hilarious given that this is what Hanna wrote in the summit register after reading Tyler's note in there: "These guys are crazy!"

Regarding the damage on the top of the trail -- basically from the upper saddle to the base of the climb: par for the course for these fragile soils given all the use. Tread as lightly and carefully as possible and stick on the trail rather than creating new ones. A bummer, but it's not going to heal until we stop using it, which isn't likely to happen.

On another note: I couldn't help noticing all the other potential routes up this buttress, most especially the crack to offwidth variation of p. 3. Has there really been no new development here? Apr 29, 2013
JimmyK
Scottsdale, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] At the bottom of our second two rope rappel, our double 60 meter ropes were a few feet short of the anchors. Feb 17, 2014
Tony San Felice
Cottonwood, Arizona
[Hide Comment] Wonderful climb. We went on a day in which we were getting 80 mph gusts of winding spiraling up the formation. Adventure!!!!! Incredible views yeah but holy cow, the climbing is INCREDIBLE.

After you drop off the stone bridge into the wash, and you come to meet with the LAMA trail, go left. Remember this juncture because there isnt a lot to remind you about it on the way back. After turning left onto the bike trail, keep an eye out for the next trail uphill. Stay left of the large, lower schnebly formation and on the slabs you will find cairns.

Keep an eye out for all rap stations!
When you're rapping down.... After you're first double rope rappell, from the top of the fourth pitch, the next rap station can be tricky to find. Account for all stages of the rappell AS YOUR CLIMBING UP

Enjoy, this is 5.9 Sedona at its best =) Apr 1, 2014
Miguel D
SLC
[Hide Comment] Missing gear: Somewhere on the route I left two BD Positrons with blue tape on them. If found, I'd appreciate them back, I'll facilitate delivery if necessary. I'm in Prescott

Anyway, climbed up to P4, had to turn back because it was getting late and didn't want to rap in the dark. Great route, winds can make it really exciting, both on the way up and down. Makes it hard to hear your belayer. I had a ton of rope drag on P3, I'm sure it was mostly due to my gear placement but still, it's a long pitch. Overall great climb.

We almost got our ropes stuck in the rappel because of the winds, make sure you are clearing them as you go down, or simply coil them on you and feed out as you descend.

Definitely recommend it. But get there early! Oct 14, 2014
Zschultz
Prescott, AZ
[Hide Comment] Climbed this route the other day. It was introduced to me as "Four Flying Apaches". Long approach, plan to be hiking for at least an hour. 1st pitch is the all-trad crux pitch imo. Stellar bolted face climbing above. Incredible points of exposure. Views of Sedona, the Mace, Church Rock, Bell Rock.

I saw a red Wild Country cam stuck near the crux of the first pitch - Looks like it walked itself in pretty far. I didn't notice any BD Positrons that were left anywhere on the route.

Careful on the second rappel - 60-meter rope barely made it, even with the stretch. Nov 5, 2014
Todd Duzer
Tempe, Arizona
[Hide Comment] Just climbed this yesterday and I believe we left a .5 black diamond cam at the summit by accident. It should be tucked away in a crack to the left. We were using it to just hold our rope from falling and my partner forgot it on his way down. We also lost a .4 black diamond cam along the way. If you happen to find them would be awesome to get them back! Awesome route and great climb :) Text / Call me 760-521-4721 Nov 10, 2014
Matt Steele
Sedona, Arizona
[Hide Comment] Found:
Rope stuck on the second-to-last rap on SSC. Email me at msteele2@scholar.yc.edu with the color of the cord and we'll get that back to ya! Jan 19, 2015
Phil Sakievich
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] We climbed this as a party of 3 this weekend. Fun route, but definitely wore me out. On the approach make sure when you get to the single track trail you head left for a bit and look for the correct wash. We thought we should just go straight and ended up with some vicious bushwhacking through razor shrubbery until the slick rock section. Found the right wash on the way back, but didn't notice/look for a cairn bc it was dark.

Someone doing a repeat on the route should double check this to make sure the cairn marking the correct wash at the single track trail is still there. Sep 14, 2015
Phil Sakievich
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Personal opinion(s): WARNING BETA INCLUDED

P1 hands down the crux. This is my first climb in Sedona, so I don't have a lot of area context, but the crux moves felt 9+ or more to me. The rest of the pitch is 5.9 or less, but three or four moves through the crux section were pretty burly.

P2 hands down the easiest pitch (nice rest after P1), we placed a couple of small pieces between bolts.

P3 money pitch if you prefer crack climbing, P4 is the money pitch if you prefer face/sport.

P5 was the second hardest in my opinion. Maybe I was just tired, but I thought it was a lot of work, and so did the other two in my party. I'm surprised there wasn't more discussion/info on this pitch. Getting on top of the chockstone's not bad; working through the roof/lip above the chockstone was more difficult. There is a fairly easy section right after this, but I didn't find a lot of inspiring placements. Then you end up in this tunnel crack thing. For some reason I was expecting a hand crack or something like P3 with exposure, but it was more like a tunnel that spits you out at the anchors. Placements are back in the crack so make sure you've got enough runners or alpine draws. Lots of face holds, stemming and body tensions got me up this pitch.

I noticed some previous comments that P4 was second hardest, but I didn't think so. I didn't lead it though so maybe I'm just biased bc of my top rope experience. It is very well bolted and little chance of injury if you were to fall.

On the rack, I agree #4 is not critical, but I definitely used it at least twice. If I repeat this I will bring #4 again, but if your a minimalist when it comes to placements who is very confident at the grade then you will be okay. We also had a 3.5, but I left it with my followers on P3 where I could have used it. I also loved placing 3's and 2's. I wouldn't have minded having triples of #3's. I definitely went through a lot of gear on my leads (P1, P3, P5). Sep 14, 2015
Jason Veatch
Göttingen
[Hide Comment] My #3 Camalot got left on P1 just before the crux. If anyone is able to recover it, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm in Phoenix and will happily pay the shipping costs if necessary. Nov 8, 2015
Miguel D
SLC
[Hide Comment] Note for the third rappel.

We rapped with two 60m ropes tied for the third rappel and they got us down to the ledge with the tree (start of p2) but not quite down to the notch of the next rappel station. We had to build a gear anchor to rappel the extra 10ft or so and last person then downclimbs (on belay) to the notch.

What you can do (and what we should've done) is tie a 60m and a 70m together for the third rap, keep the knot centered on the anchor as you start going down, and when you can stand on the ledge with the tree, pull the 60m rope down about 5m to even out the ends so you can continue down to the notch while on rappel. Next person starting the third rap pulls the knot back to the center and repeats the process

On a separate note, we did a variation on the first pitch where you traverse left a little after the first section of p1 and go up a thin crack with some sketchy looking chockstones sticking halfway out. I brought up a #4 C4 and never used it the entire route, but I think it was because of this variation. I've heard it is needed for the first pitch if you do the normal route Nov 10, 2015
Derek Field
Nevada
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Might be one of the best moderates in Sedona. It's one awesome pitch stacked atop another. Budget extra time for sloggy approach through the maze of washes. Mar 10, 2016
Topher Dabrowski
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] NEW APPROACH INFO NOV 2016
Please try to use existing trails as much as possible to minimize impact.

NEW APPROACH INFO NOV 2016 The approach for this climb should follow the green (0.3mi), blue(1.1mi) and yellow indicated trails.  The red route was the previous approach and is only 0.1 miles shorter than the blue trail on the way to the upper wash. Both have the same elevation gain but the red route moves through un-established terrain. Please use the existing trails to reach the upper wash so we can minimize impact.
Nov 27, 2016
[Hide Comment] We got our rope completely stuck on Rap 2 in really high winds, had to bail on it to avoid weather and rap down on our single 60m. Not fun. Maybe someone can recover it from the top of pitch 4.

Other than that, it was a fantastic route with lots of variation and the best views. Apr 30, 2017
Timothy Carlson
NorCal
 
[Hide Comment] Left a BD #2 somewhere up on SSC yesterday (11/2). It is probably on the third pitch. It has blue tape on it. If someone could rescue it, I will reward you with a beverage of your choice. Nov 3, 2017
Daniel Evans
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9 PG13
[Hide Comment] Can't say enough good things about this route, which has easily earned a spot on my list of top 5 favorite climbs to date. I gave it a PG13 rating for the initial traverse from the anchors on P5--otherwise the entire route protects well. The ledges on the 2nd & 3rd rappels will likely snag your rope on the pull (as it did ours), so be prepared to lead back up relatively easy ground to free it. Nov 6, 2017
Jacob Dolence
Farmville, VA
 
[Hide Comment] Somehow got a #4 dmm dragon horribly stuck on the first pitch. Happy to reward finder, pay shipping, trade for good beer, etc... if someone is able to get it out. Thanks. Jan 14, 2018
DesertRat
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] The #4 Dragon, as well as a .75 C4 and another TCU? were all still fixed as of Saturday (1/27/18). The #4 will almost certainly come out, it was wiggling in there quite a bit. Jan 29, 2018
Angela Edwards
Scottsdale, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Unfortunately I had to leave a rope on this yesterday, took two of my friends on their first multipitch! But, it was very windy when we rapped, and the 2nd rope got stuck in a crack (thankfully) on the last pitch when pulling it. I won't be able to go back to get it until the weekend, it was sunset already and I had to get back to Phoenix for work. If anyone pulls it off, please please please contact me, I will pay you a finder's fee for not taking it.... It's a red petzl 70m dry 9.2mm... It has some life left in it, but I've been using it for several years. You could do better in terms of booty, lol, I use it as my 2nd line at this point... but I'm sentimentally attached to it as I've taken it on basically every trad lead I've ever been proud of, even if I wasn't leading on that one.

Lost gear aside, this route is so quality and fun. The approach makes it a long day, I think it's a little shittier (loose at the top in the wash) than other longer approach Sedona climbs, but the rock is better quality, making up for it. The flake on P1 is so fun, and P3 is such an aesthetic crack, amazing views the whole time.... P2 is a little awkward, why not use the chimney and get some full value trad? They'd both be 5.easy anyway. This climb has everything, I would recommend it to anyone, even if it's windy and your rope gets stuck, ha. Apr 3, 2018
[Hide Comment] Does anyone happen to know what the speed record is ? Someone in the summit register stated they broke it but didn't give a time.. May 27, 2018
Short Fall Sean
Bishop, CA
[Hide Comment] Did this route today 9/2. I wasn't watching the clock, but I think we were in the shade until about noon. If you got an early start and moved quickly, you could do the whole thing before the sun hit. Temps were mid 80s in town and it was quite pleasant on the route even after it went into the sun.

I'd echo above comments about the 4. We brought one and managed to place it 2 or 3 times, but it wasn't necessary. Next time I'd skip it.

Fun route! I thought pitch one was the best and five was a bit of a pile, but it was all pretty good. Sep 2, 2018
[Hide Comment] #4 is handy for at least P1. There is a brand new #4 BD ultralight we got stuck there for you to clip into, but if you could get it out for me afterwards, I'd be very grateful and happy to provide a beverage of choice in return.

Brought a #5 for P1 but didn't use there, but ended up being helpful for P3 in the vertical crack and on P5 just after the traverse (although you could get a 3 pretty close to both placements). Dec 14, 2019
David Dzwonar
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Only did pitches 1-4 due to time yesterday, but I'll definitely be back to finish it - super fun climbing! Agree with others that pitch 1 felt the hardest; pitch 4 was probably my favorite. Aaron's #4 is still there, but the wires are snapped and the stem felt very loose, I'm unsure how many (if any) falls it could hold. I appreciated having a single #4 for the 1st pitch, but I'm definitely less confident on cracks that size.
We did get our ropes stuck a couple times thanks to the high winds like others have mentioned; in the future I'd take the time to saddlebag the ropes each time. Jan 28, 2020
David Dzwonar
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Having done this route again, saddlebagging your ropes is definitely the way to go when rapping. It can actually be done in just 3 double-rope raps if you have 2 70m ropes - top of P5 to the rap anchors under P4, from there to the rap anchors under P2, and from there to the ground. Aug 13, 2020
Tal M
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Made the mistake of bringing the whole damn REI climbing section up this thing today based on the recommendations here. I'm not what I would call a bold climber and I'm only a 5.10 leader online and we only used a single rack 0.3-3 and a small smattering of large nuts. If you really want to sew it up, bring double #3s. May 12, 2021
[Hide Comment] On the rappel starting at the top of the 4th pitch with the really long chains, thread your rope through the absolute end of the links, or prepare to deal with a rope stuck epic like me, and obviously several earlier commenters experienced. There is a notch that eats EDKs for breakfast. Dec 29, 2021
Tyler Collins
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
[Hide Comment] What a great route. Thought the crux was the slopey buldge/roof on P5. Tip for the approach that might help some folks. On the lama trail, after about .35 miles you will encounter a large wash that drains off a slick rock waterfall, this is not the wash you're shooting for. Walk another tenth of a mile or so. There was also a limestone band encountered on the approach that is upper 4th class and would have some serious consequences should you botch it in either direction. Even for Sedona standards this approach is pretty burly. Oct 2, 2022
[Hide Comment] Who on earth uses NAD27 anymore?
Here are the wgs84 equivalents:
34.8207780, -111.7613940
34.8198940, -111.7542570 Mar 18, 2023
John Imperato
Rescue, CA
[Hide Comment] I missed the NAD27 datum distinction for the approach UTM's and ended up off course. The UTM's that I marked in datum WGS84 (most commonly used today) are:
The approach wash: 12S 430360 3853436
Start of route: 12S 431041 3853338
^ Trad Man's decimal degree points match up with my UTM's:
Approach wash: 34.8207780, -111.7613940
Start of route: 34.8198940, -111.7542570
The approach trail is fairly well-worn and takes you ascender's left of the big spire below the start of the route. Apr 11, 2023
Zach Harrison
Flagstaff
[Hide Comment] Can BARELY! rap route with an 80m if using every belay/rap station. It seems odd that a 600’ route with 9 bolted belay/rappel stations would require 2 ropes to descend given how many ledges exist on this route. Nov 12, 2023