PRINT: Rock Climb League of Notions, Red Rocks

League of Notions

5.9, Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Mark Moore, Randal Grandstaff. Fall 1976
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Oak Creek Canyon > Cactus Flower T… > League of Notions Area

Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste Details

WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.

See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.

Description

This route sits low on the East Face of Cactus Flower Tower. Joanne Urioste observes in the Red Book that while standing at the mouth of Oak Creek Canyon (say, at the intersection of Oak Creek Trail and Knoll Trail), the line of League of Notions sits on the plumb line from the top of the Mount Wilson summit.

Approach by hiking up the ridge line that is on the left side and parallel to the drainage below the climb. Once through the pink cliff band, you'll need to contour right to the base of the climb.

Pitch 1: Ascend the dihedral. Build an anchor at some bushes to the right. There are slings here for rappelling.

Pitch 2: Go to the right and down, traverse the face on thin holds to the next crack. Little pro.

Pitch 3: climb up the chimney and off-width through the roof and up the finger crack.

Rappel the route with two ropes.

Protection

Standard rack with wide gear.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

League of Notions

Red Rock pioneer Joe Herbst leads the first pitch of League of Notions during an early ascent in 1977. Photo by Tom Kaufman

Matt McMackin, another of the early Red Rock climbers, during the 1977 ascent. Photo by another Red Rock original, Tom Kaufman.

League of Notions

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV

5.9

I climbed this route yesterday and I have to say that it seemed to be quite the sandbag. I've climbed a few old-school 5.9 routes in Red Rock and this one seemed substantially harder.

We ended up having to aid through the first pitch. It felt like 5.10b or c. The second pitch was quite exposed and poorly protected for a fifteen foot traverse to the right. We gave up and bailed from slings at the top of pitch one.

It really seems like a good climb. The rock is a little mossy on pitch one, and the moss rubs off like dirt, making friction moves pretty tough. However, I can see why the first ascent team chose this line - it truly is beautiful. Jan 24, 2006

john campbell

I agree that this was a sandbag. I hardly ever tape up but I would recommend taping up for this route. The crack on P1 is .75 - 1 Camalot. Jan 24, 2006