PRINT: Rock Climb Classic Crack, Portland & The Gorge

Classic Crack

5.9+, Trad, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 196 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (3) Red Wall

Description

This short but "classic" crack has purportedly become harder over the years due to glossing from continuous traffic. Nevertheless it is still a great climb with quality moves. A nice feature of this climb is the overhanging rock above it protects the climb from rain.

The climb begins on a small platform. Ascend a wide crack that quickly narrows to finger size. Top out using the crack or traverse left onto face holds.

Rappel or do 5.1 walk off to the left.

Protection

Single set of cams with doubles in the finger sizes. Nice big chains at top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Classic Crack

Grease is the word to describe this route

Classic Crack 5.9+<br>
pretty polished rock these days

Classic Crack 5.9+ pretty polished rock these days

Greg on Classic Crack

See? Classic...

Working the first crux section right at the flare.

The full route side view.

Classic crack.

Act a fool on classic crack. good job Kohl.

Full route top roped from the top of the 5.10c extension. Good to keep draws clipped for top roping.

Rhys Schreck (age 9) negotiating the beginning moves of 5.10c above Classic Crack.

Starting up the 5.10c section, which has 4 bolts for people interested in leading it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ

Fun route! Make sure it's in the shade though, because it's pretty slick. Jul 27, 2006

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA

5.9

I wanted to add that the route can be TRed by scrambling in from the left (north) side. Nov 13, 2006

Jeffrey Struck
Portland

While there are "nice big chains" at the belay, I remember questioning the integrity of the bolts the last time I was up there. They are not threaded screw-ins (Rawl, Powers, etc.), but big button-heads that are simply hammered in. They may look huge from the outside, but I question how long the bolts actually are. Just because the heads of the bolts are big does not mean they are bomber! Does anyone know the history of these particular anchor bolts?

Otherwise, sweet route, especially if you link it with the short 10c above! Better anchors up there, if I remember right!

P.S. You can put in a piece or two to the left of the bolt anchor if top-roping. Aug 6, 2007

Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon

The anchors have been replaced. Jul 22, 2008

Ian G.
PDX, OR

Really fun. Too bad it's not 100 feet longer... Aug 5, 2009

Bryan Hall
Portland, Oregon

Fun route. If your jams are good you shouldn't worry about how slick people say this route is. That being said, if you try to stay in the crack all the way to the top your feet will be on some buttery rock before you make it to the ledge. A great on-sight opportunity. Jun 12, 2012

Rich C

The first move is a little nervy and that seemed to be the only "slick holds". regardless they are big feet. great finger movement through the middle section. if this was 5 times longer it would be an indian creek mega classic. The routes above it seemed fun too. Nov 11, 2012

berl
Seattle

Rich- you climbed it at one of the best times of the year for friction: on a cool dry day after there's been enough rain to wash off all the grease and chalk from the summer. Late summer is a different story! Nov 12, 2012

Vince Schreck
Portland, OR

Climbed this on top rope the other day with my son Rhys (age 9). He rocked it, I fell more than him. It feels like a HARD 5.9, especially if you're not used to cracks. In a relatively short distance, it has a little bit of everything: hands, fingers, off-width, and some face climbing thrown in near the top. Classic! Jul 19, 2013

James Draden Moore

Sent the 5.10c flailed on this 9! Maybe it's a Crack climbers rating. Feb 12, 2018

Evan Erwin
Fayetteville, NC

5.8-

The constrictions are good enough that the friction shouldn’t matter, great climb, when the fingers are thin the feet are good and vice versa. Dec 31, 2020

Spencer Edgren
Vancouver, WA

5.9+

Finally lead this thing...hit it in the best possible condition and its still greasy as hell, but still doable. Jun 23, 2021

Sarah Lydecker
Portland, OR

The best time to climb this route is when hell freezes over or temps are below 50 degrees. All the moves are physically easy, but linking them on the polished, “vertical slab” takes nerve and commitment to the grease. Going left and defecting to the face as soon as possible will help you save face… there’s no glory in trying for follow this crack all the way up to the chains. May 22, 2022