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Routes in The Negropolis

B for Beers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cougar.com S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dance on Fire T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dancing With The Scars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exstrophy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Girls in the Mist S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Just Smrz It T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Love Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Metal Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rap Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Slap Prancing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Square Dancing TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tap Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Tunnel of Love T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Mike Brown & Craig Fry, October 1985
Page Views: 1,287 total · 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb a slab past two bolts to reach a left-slanting dike system which is followed up to a third bolt where you'll encounter the crux. Once past the crux one more bolt leads to anchors at the top.

Enjoyable moves, quality rock and the suberb view from the top make this a route worth seeking out if in the area. Two stars out of five.

Location

This lies to the right of the actual Negropolis formation on a similar sized pillar of rock with a slanting dike system and down and left from the block with Girls in the Mist.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
Very fun and almost worth hiking up there just for this route alone. I agree with Cho in that the crux is working the dike to gain the 3rd bolt; somewhat thought provoking but not overly difficult. Actually claiming to my partners that it may be easier than Love Bandit to the right.

Whatever the grade, it's worth climbing. Very fun, nicely bolted, solid rock and sport-anchors. What else are you looking for in a 50' climb? Oct 27, 2013
Cho
  5.10b
Cho  
  5.10b
Real nice route. Clipping the third bolt from a stance wasn’t happening for me (5’8), so an off balance move, which felt like the crux, was necessary first. Gonna go with 10b. Jan 22, 2013