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Routes in Uncle Remus Block

Man from Uncle T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Uncle Remus T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Up the Ante TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: (TR) John Bachar, FL: Kurt Smith 1988
Page Views: 714 total · 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb good edges past two bolts (crux), then grab a huge brown flake and make some committing moves manteling the flake to reach the third and last bolt. Easy moves lead to the top and a bolted anchor.

This is a fun route similar in character and difficulty to those found at The Love Nest. Well worth a spin if in the area and three stars out of five.

Location

You'll find this route on the southwest corner of the Uncle Remus Block facing towards the Aiguille de Joshua Tree.

Protection

3 bolts (3/8"), 2 bolt anchor/rap (1/2")

Photos

Murf  
Airy going for the last bolt. You can sling the mantel edge before the move, but you might be best served by just going for it. Jan 23, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.11b
C Miller   CA  
  5.11b
It's a little spicy making the mantle but the crux is past and the moves are much easier. I recall hearing you could sling the large flake but it looked like it had broken and it didn't seem worth hanging out trying to get the sling on - much easier to keep climbing! Jan 23, 2006
dnaiscool  
 
Buyer Beware:There is potential for some big air if you come off working the smears up to that last bolt...Just sayin'...and if you have some big-loop Euro-style belay whose had a few too many bong hits, then you might just hit the deck...keep that belay on full alert with this spicy route, which is sorta flash pumpy, too. Mar 29, 2015

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