Type: Sport
FA: Tom Egan, December 1990
Page Views: 5,429 total · 34/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

154 Opinions

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A great 5.11a on the far left end of Shipwreck. Slightly overhanging but with good holds and fun movement. I only wish it were longer!


6 bolts and a bolted anchor


The undercling/start has gotten amazingly slimy and greasy, making it a bit less fun. I heard the good thumb catch for the right on that undercling had disintegrated a bit, too. Still a great route, though. Jan 30, 2006
mark d
mark d  
good route that sees plenty of traffic.

it's rated 11b in the new watts guide. Apr 18, 2006
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
If the consensus is 11b then I can change it. It's been a few years since I've been on it. Apr 18, 2006
while a good climb, it does not live up to its hype. try its neighbor, more sandy than kevin, for a better line. Jun 19, 2006
Joel Sprenger
Terrebonne, OR
Joel Sprenger   Terrebonne, OR
This is a great route. I for some reason attempted to pull the route using the sucker- jug off to the right which then ruined my onsight. It is easier to clip the second bolt off of the jug, but hard trying to come into the undercling sequence afterwards. I don't know about 11b though? Nov 28, 2007
This is one of those routes that can feel really easy if you're strong and can make long reaches. If you're short the crux will probably feel annoying hard for the grade. This route, Toxic and License to Bolt are 11s that I have seen shorter climbers get frustrated on. Dec 14, 2008
Eric Schnepel
Eric Schnepel   Portland
The second clip is for sure the crux. That undercling is POLISHED. Found a knee-bar with a foot in the hole out right that made this thing pretty casual, but I still think it tends more towards 11b. Apr 13, 2011
Toby Butterfield
Portland, OR
Toby Butterfield   Portland, OR
I feel... really good about the undercling. It doesn't feel polished to me at all. Maybe I'm using a different part of it?

I'll have to try the knee bar next time I'm up there. Oct 5, 2011
tough start May 12, 2012
I don't know exactly why, but I hate this thing. Apr 14, 2014
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Sandbag. Maybe I am tired. Looked fun yet it is polished and has what seems like a harder than 11 move at the crux. I couldn't convince myself to work it as it was my last afternoon here. Sep 4, 2014
bheller   SL UT
It is a bit of a sandbag, but then so is Liquid Jade to the right. Get your feet up higher than you think you should at the undercling bit and take 11b if you need it. Sep 6, 2014
Tony Litke
La Crosse, Wisconsin
Tony Litke   La Crosse, Wisconsin
I've seen people do this so many different ways. It's super height-beta dependent... I tend to avoid the giant Waco and double bump my left hand at the crux. It's smoothie-smooth sailing from there. Mar 4, 2015
Good route that ended up being my project on my first and so far only trip to Smith. Goes from bouldery to delicate. It takes a healthy combination of fitness, technique, and burl to get through the first 3 bolts, and the movement involved through this sequence alone is worth giving this route a try. Yes, the beginning is slick, but with the right beta it should not hamper your upward progress. Jun 28, 2016
Good route. The undercling doesn't feel that bad if conditions are decent, but I can imagine it feeling like a grease fest if it's in the sun on a hot day. Feels a bit easier than Cool Ranch, but a similar style (i.e. boulder problem crux + easier climbing.) I'm over 6', though, and it might be reachy for short people. Oct 9, 2017
Devin Bishop  
Found it much harder than Cool Ranch (my only Smith 11b red point), but I’m 5’7” and found the entire lower portion very reachy and dynamic. Have no idea how I’d clip the second and third bolts on lead. Apr 6, 2018