Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Alan Watts, April 1984
Page Views: 19,245 total · 122/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


86 Opinions

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Description

The best route of its grade at Smith. With a dynamic crux coming near the top, a climber needs to be careful to avoid getting pumped on the technical crimps and pockets below. The route is perfect in pretty much every way. The falls are clean and the climbing exciting, and this route should be on every climber's tick-list.

Although the route extends to the top of the cliff, the upper section is rarely done. Both pitches together bump the grade to a very pumpy 5.12c with a couple of good runouts at the top. Most ascents of this route stop at the anchors halfway up (5.12a).

It's located just to the right of Chain Reaction in the middle of the Dihedrals.

Protection

5 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor. An additional 3 bolts protect the less-traveled top portion of the route.

Photos

Vernon Stiefel
  5.12c
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.12c
The crux on the upper portion of Heinous Cling is 5.12 involving sequential and bouldery moves. Hence, the 12c rating. I was able to exact a long rest by jamming the deep pocket after the crux and alternately hanging off each arm before charging to the top. The runout section past the final bolt is probably 10+ / 11-. Jan 27, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12c
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12c
Quite a technical route. Pockets, crimps, and a dyno.... no wonder it's so popular. I found it to be a bit sketchy after the crux dyno until you make the clip. Aug 3, 2006
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
The 12a version of this route is much harder for 'short' people. I'm not sure what the height cutoff is, but at 5'7" I can do the standard beta. However, my 5'5" GF had to do a crazy heel hook maneuver (with the left foot) to set up for the crux crimping section. Essentially it adds a new, even harder crux, just below the 'actual' crux. Nov 27, 2006
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12c
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.12c
I'm 5'3" and could do the moves without any crazy heel hook. I just did a big back step on the crux of the 12a climbing. And found the moves to the big ledge not that bad. Oct 13, 2008
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
  5.12c
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
  5.12c
Yep, I'm 5 foot even and did the crux of the 12a part without any high heel hook. I just locked off those crimpers, brought my feet up and grabbed the rail. It wasn't even dynamic. I haven't been on the upper section yet though. Apr 20, 2011
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
So this route is 12a to the first anchors right? Then 12c to the 2nd anchors? Dec 11, 2014
"So this route is 12a to the first anchors right? Then 12c to the 2nd anchors?"

Yes. To clarify the route description above, the 5.12c section is not another pitch, it's the complete line.


Chad Dec 12, 2014
Drewsky  
When I was on this in January this year there was a fixed nut and draw after the last bolt. No more runout. Less classic, though. Mar 20, 2015
Could someone please teach me about the history and ethic of the victory whip on this route? Jun 3, 2018