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All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (h) The Peanut

Pop Goes the Nubbin

5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British


 Avg: 2.3 from 177 votes

Routes in (h) The Peanut

Hop on Pop S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peanut Brittle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pop Goes the Nubbin S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popism S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,367 total · 15/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This enjoyable slab route climbs straight up the middle of The Peanut. It's well-protected and technical climbing.

Protection

7 bolts and a bolted anchor

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Photos

Yvonne on Pop Goes the Nubbin
Yvonne on Pop Goes the Nubbin
 1
Pop Goes the Nubbin on the right, with the start of Peanut Brittle in the left of the photo
Pop Goes the Nubbin on the right, with the star…
 0

9 Comments

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ScottH
ScottH  
I found the second bolt on this climb to be an insecure and spooky clip. Also, the run up to the anchors is fairly run out. I wouldn't upgrade the seriousness of the route (particulary since I am a chicken on pebble pinching slabs), but I didn't think this was a casual 10a romp. Jan 30, 2006
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
 
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
 
I see why you say that. I don't think it's quite as run-out as Peanut Brittle (which I gave a PG-13), but I could be remembering it wrong. It's been a few years since I've been on it. Jan 30, 2006
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a PG13
The spacing of the 1st two bolts is a little bold- if you call the 5.8 pg13, this one definitely is. May 28, 2010
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I thought that this route was burly for the grade. I also agree that the second clip is a bit of a barn burner. Jul 13, 2010
Todd99
 
Todd99  
 
I have to agree the first two bolts are especially spicy. After that it's still challenging but not as intense. May 13, 2011
S. Eppes
Bend , OR
  5.10a
S. Eppes   Bend , OR
  5.10a
I think the second clip is only sketch if you are too far right. Moving left on to smaller holds just before the bolt led to a nice stance. Jun 19, 2013
morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.10a
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.10a
In true Smith fashion, the hardest part of the climb is getting to the first bolt which could have been closer to the ground. Agree that the second clip is also a bit spooky and delicate. Fun route Jun 17, 2015
Z Winters
Mazama, WA
  5.10a PG13
Z Winters   Mazama, WA
  5.10a PG13
Getting to the first bolt is easy (5.8 at most), the crux is well protected by the first bolt, but when you finish the crux you have some spicy 5.9 moves to reach the second bolt (don't fall here). A great route, and memorable due to a pinch of excitement. I think PG-13 would be appropriate, but would definitely recommend doing it anyway. Mar 20, 2016
oretro
  5.10a PG13
oretro  
  5.10a PG13
The description of the route as being well protected is misleading. I would strongly recommend modifying the description of the route is being PG-13. It would be a very painful fall between bolts one and two. Nov 13, 2016

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