Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,796 total · 43/month
Shared By: James Van Horne on Jan 21, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

24 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This is at the north end of the Grocery Store Wall. As you walk down the trail, the first boulder you will come to will be the Stage Boulder, and down and to the right of that is the cave. The route traverses left to right on the crimpy rail eventually reaching the rail at head hight then a dyno to the jug on the left.


A pad is nice also be careful not to hit the block on the left as you dyno.


North Bend, OR
cstorms   North Bend, OR
This is hands down one of the best problems at Castlewood, if not the best. Jul 16, 2006
Scott Rogers
Moab, UT
Scott Rogers   Moab, UT
I have to agree with you completely. What's even better is that there are endless variations starting lower and lower in the cave, increasing the difficulty to up to v10 or so. Aug 7, 2006
Andrew Iltis
Denver, CO
Andrew Iltis   Denver, CO
The moves require super sweet body tension, but the last chuck for the jug is tainted by the swing into the block directly behind. I would say for the rating this is one of the best, but definitely not THE best. Try Punani or even Tiger Woods. The latter requires just as much tension but has a clean swing upon latching the toss to the jug. Jun 19, 2007
North Bend, OR
cstorms   North Bend, OR
I said it may be the best, I'd have to agree that Punani and Tiger are the other contenders. I didn't hit the block on the dyno on cave direct, so maybe that's why I love it so much...I'm sure after/if I send Punani, I'll like it more...it is, after all...Punani. Jun 27, 2007
Where is the start exactly for the V6 at the rail straight below or on the low left rail? Also reading at castlewoodcanyonbouldering.…, the author says that a dab on the boulder doesn't invalidate the climb is this what most people agree to or have most of you figured out a way not to dab? Jan 11, 2009
tcamillieri   Denver
But since when does Justin Jaeger count? He in-himself is a dab. Aug 24, 2009
Thanks, Tom.

The dab allowance was originally mentioned Bennigfield's guidebook, and seems to be consensus with ascentionists. I was eventually able to send this rig without the dab with an insane amount of try-hard.

To not dab, in addition to climbing it from the slightly lower start and broken parts of this climb as of summer '09, would make this rig harder than most 9s in RMNP.

Just sayin'....

As far as I know, this climb has never been done from the lowest left start from the left-facing pocket down a tier. Some folks were close in '05/'06, but couldn't avoid dabbing on the block in the landing. Nov 23, 2009
tcamillieri   Denver

No worries thanks for the beta today. Had a great time.

Here's to the little dab! Salud!

What about Cave Route Direct Direct Direct? Starting on the jug and going straight up to the crimp. Match and don't go to the jug but jump to the crimp straight up. Eliminate par excellance. Came close today, but the finger hurt so I had to back down. Dec 19, 2009
Squish   Lakewood
When was the last time this problem was attempted? I was there several weeks ago in December and noticed another hold broke off. A crucial foot which I totally need to change my beta, b/c I can't even get into the crux sequence anymore =( Jan 13, 2010
I don't know if the breakage has really done that much to change the grade, at most now it is a v7. Jan 23, 2011
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
Hopped on this yesterday, no dab and felt very 6-y to me. Definitely not 7. May 27, 2012
Gneiss Yeti
Denver, Colorado
Gneiss Yeti   Denver, Colorado
Another large break:( The large hand hold in the corner of the first ledge system right where it starts to go diagonal is completely gone leaving a tiny sharp jib in its wake. Painful and hard. No comment on whether any harder, since I have never sent it, but it is definitely harder than last year. Come check it out. Nov 10, 2013