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North Ridge

5.7+, Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 1.7 from 14 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Chimney Canyon > Sentinel


Pitch 1: Begin on an open book at the north end of The Sentinel (west face). First 15 feet or so are difficult to protect but go at about 5.5. Continue through the offwidth section (5.6) and place a #4 Camalot. Continue up and right through some bushes through easy 5th class and trend right to a tree with some webbing wrapped around it. Belay here.

Pitch 2: Continue up from the tree, trending slightly left. Pass through some loose rock (can be difficult to protect) through some 5.5 or 5.6 climbing, placing pro where you can. Continue up through the offwidth (need #5 cam to protect) to a ledge, and then right to another ledge. Belay here (can use cordelette off rocks for anchor).

Pitch 3: Continue up easy 5th class to the summit. Could do the climb in two pitches with a 50m rope, but rope drag may be nasty.


Gear: Single set #.4-#5 Camalot

Anchors: Can use webbing/ cordlette around summit boulders

Descent: Walk of the south end of the formation (exposed 4th class), or rappel down Lost Ledge route (south end) with two 60m ropes. There was some new webbing with rap rings already placed when I climbed it (9/2005).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Self drawn topo of North Ridge climb (rough and not to scale).
[Hide Photo] Self drawn topo of North Ridge climb (rough and not to scale).
Photo of the start pitch (North Ridge)
[Hide Photo] Photo of the start pitch (North Ridge)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill Lawry
Albuquerque, NM
  5.7+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Most of the P2 climbing seems directly above the belay tree. If climbing with a party larger than two, the looseness early in P2 is all the more worrisome. Still, I think this is a route worth repeating.

For ending P2, we belayed immediately above the OW crack on a large ledge.

A beginning 5.7 leader will appreciate having a couple 5 inch cams. Jun 21, 2009
Sam Robison
  5.7 PG13
[Hide Comment] P2 was really heady, I would definitely take one, if not two, #5s if you have them. I had a 4.5 and didn't feel great about it in the offwidth. There a lot of loose rocks in pretty critical places, so you almost inevitably gonna be stepping on some, so definitely be careful. Also, a few of the spots that look like the best/only places to put gear near the crux are behind chunks that look ready to fall off and the crux moves are full of lichen, so I'd put it at PG13, but I'm also new to the Sandias, so I know it's probably typical. I may have been off route as well, so who's to say. Pretty fun route, though, and not too far from the crest.

We went down the 4th class stuff and it was fine. A little exposed but not bad. Looks like you can rap from the top on the eastern side to a safe place to scramble down as well with a 60m, but I can't say for sure.

Also, I dropped some nuts off the crux move and they're sitting on the ledge if anyone is tryna come up big May 16, 2021