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Routes in The Sentinel

Almost Overlooked T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Lost Ledge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Ridge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 142 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anthony Stout on Jan 20, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Pitch 1: Begin on an open book at the north end of The Sentinel (west face). First 15 feet or so are difficult to protect but go at about 5.5. Continue through the offwidth section (5.6) and place a #4 Camalot. Continue up and right through some bushes through easy 5th class and trend right to a tree with some webbing wrapped around it. Belay here.

Pitch 2: Continue up from the tree, trending slightly left. Pass through some loose rock (can be difficult to protect) through some 5.5 or 5.6 climbing, placing pro where you can. Continue up through the offwidth (need #5 cam to protect) to a ledge, and then right to another ledge. Belay here (can use cordelette off rocks for anchor).

Pitch 3: Continue up easy 5th class to the summit. Could do the climb in two pitches with a 50m rope, but rope drag may be nasty.

Protection

Gear: Single set #.4-#5 Camalot

Anchors: Can use webbing/ cordlette around summit boulders

Descent: Walk of the south end of the formation (exposed 4th class), or rappel down Lost Ledge route (south end) with two 60m ropes. There was some new webbing with rap rings already placed when I climbed it (9/2005).

Photos

Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.7+ PG13
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.7+ PG13
Most of the P2 climbing seems directly above the belay tree. If climbing with a party larger than two, the looseness early in P2 is all the more worrisome. Still, I think this is a route worth repeating.

For ending P2, we belayed immediately above the OW crack on a large ledge.

A beginning 5.7 leader will appreciate having a couple 5 inch cams. Jun 21, 2009