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Lost Ledge

5.7, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.7 from 33 votes
FA: Larry Kline, Steve Merrill, 1970
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Chimney Canyon > Sentinel

Description

Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches. I would recommend one, which definitely can be done with a 60m rope.

Begin on the nice-looking right-facing dihedral, on the right (south) end of the west face of the formation. Good protection, good rock. Follow the lichen-covered crack in the middle of the dihedral to a small roof and step left, continuing on easy 5th class to the summit. The crack can also be continued through the roof (5.7) instead of traversing left.

If climbing as 2 pitches, there’s a belay ledge below the roof with ample protection. 

Protection

GEAR: Single set to #3, doubles in .4-.75, set of nuts. Bring more cams if you’re going to climb as one long pitch.

DESCENT: Rappel off the summit block slung with webbing/cord to the saddle at the SE end of the formation with a 60m rope. Inspect cord/webbing and be prepared to leave new anchor material.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Andrew following Greg up Lost Ledge
[Hide Photo] Andrew following Greg up Lost Ledge
Looking up at the roof.
[Hide Photo] Looking up at the roof.
Sam following P1 on Lost Ledge
[Hide Photo] Sam following P1 on Lost Ledge
Anton's first trad climb
[Hide Photo] Anton's first trad climb
Andrew and Greg queued up for Lost Ledge, as Ryan finishes solo.
[Hide Photo] Andrew and Greg queued up for Lost Ledge, as Ryan finishes solo.
View down the clean corner of Lost Ledge after the move left
[Hide Photo] View down the clean corner of Lost Ledge after the move left
Photos of Lost Ledge
[Hide Photo] Photos of Lost Ledge

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mike Mooney
Silverthorne, CO
[Hide Comment] Wondering exactly where to move to the left?
There's a loose block, that's the place. Then belay.

(relax, this loose one doesn't seem to be going anywhere. Sep 26, 2006
[Hide Comment] For the descent, we found easy 4th class heading east (not south) to the east saddle, then descended north to join the approach route to the Sentinel. The “rap station” was puzzling, with the rap rings on the east side of the boulders, but set up poorly to rap east (which wasn’t needed). Perhaps set up instead for the Tyrolean traverse mountainproject.com/v/10658…? Sep 26, 2011
kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
  5.7
[Hide Comment] It is definitely in good form to follow the crack all the way through the "roof". I did it both ways and did not find passing through the roof to be substantially harder than anything else on the route. Oct 2, 2011
Bill Lawry
Albuquerque, NM
[Hide Comment] If staying in the crack and going through the roof, one can afterwards step left as indicated. But continuing straight up is good clean rock all the way to the summit ... as led by franciscov Valenzuela. Jul 16, 2012
Anna Brown
New Mexico
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I highly recommend climbing this straight up through the upper roof instead of escaping left. Solid protection and great climbing on that roof section. Sep 26, 2023